Whilst the debate continues about the top down prepared route on Half Dome and for some its too many bolts (UKC news item) an ex-pat Brit called Paul Ross is getting some stick for too few bolts on his routes. Says one repeat ascensionist,
"No shit, the first pitch is an X rating all the way, not R!!! It may be moderate climbing but the sandstone here is far from bomber. I had avoided the X rated climbs on purpose and still found myself in a situation where a broken hold would mean a 90 foot ground fall onto rock."
One of Paul's partners on these runout routes was none other than Sir Chris Bonington.
Bad boys - read the full report HERE
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| Reviewed: Eiger - Triumphe und Tragödien 1932-1938 by Rainer Rettner |
![[Anderl Heckmair, with Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek made the first ascent of the Eiger North Face., 3 kb]](/images/t/85874.jpg "[Anderl Heckmair, with Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek made the first ascent of the Eiger North Face., 3 kb]") The story of the early attempts to climb the Eiger North face has been told many times, and is full of heroism and mythology, not least because the most famous account, “The White Spider”, was written by Heinrich Harrer, one of those on the first successful ascent. When I first heard about Rainer Rettner’s new book “Eiger – Triumphe und Tragödien 1932-1938 I kind of expected another rehash of the known stories, with added new pictures. I was pleasantly surprised that I was wrong. |
 read more... |
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| Photo of the Week |
"Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks" © Tony Simpkins |
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 Rock and Run:
Mountain Hardwear Alcove 3 GT Tent - £145.00
The easy to pitch Mountain Hardwear Alcove 3 GT is an elegant, roomy backpacking/standard camping tent for three. Three Atlas 7001 poles in an offset arrangement create a vertical entry, increase usable vestibule space and create a dry entry for bad weather. The Alcove 3 also has a rear door with additional vestibule space. Guaranteed watertight construction. Superlight option: pitch with fly and Pitch Light footprint to shave pounds.
More Details:
Rock and Run
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The most popular Climbing Forums in the world, with 10,000 new messages last week. Talk about the routes you're going to do, ethical debates, foreign trips, winter routes and conditions or expeditions. Some of the busiest of the 1000+ topics this week included:
The No.1 poster in our Top 40 Posters this week was grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat.
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 Continuing Professional Development for Winter ML & MICs at Glenmore Lodge
Glenmore Lodge are looking to expand their contribution to freelance instructors by offering Continuing Professional Development to Winter Mountain Leaders and MICs.
In January 2009, we are setting aside one day for WM Leaders to go out with Lodge instructors at the beginning of the season to share best practice and top tips on being safe and looking after your clients. The same will be available for another day for MICs. There will be a nominal charge of £30 and there are beds set aside for those who want to stay at the Lodge for dinner bed and breakfast .
We hope this is received well and look forward to seeing as many people as possible making the most of the opportunity to start the season with a team of like-minded professionals. The dates and costs will be confirmed in our brochure and website in September.
We design and develop specific CPD courses for instructors that are over and above training and assessment. 'Teaching Navigation', 'Movement on Rock' , 'Avalanche Avoidance' are just three examples of this. We are here to help so please feel free to contact with ideas if you feel there is an area that needs developing.
Tel: 01479 861256 // Email - enquiries@glenmorelodge.org.uk // www.glenmorelodge.org.uk
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![[North Face Direct, Aiguille du Plan, Massif du Mont Blanc, France, 2 kb]](/images/t/45983.jpg "[North Face Direct, Aiguille du Plan, Massif du Mont Blanc, France, 2 kb]") |
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