UKC

Deil or No Deil: New Arbroath E8


30 Mar, 2015
No reason why you can't have a good trad thing within a pre-dominantly sport area. The main consideration is surely no.3 - whether it makes a better trad or sport route.
31 Mar, 2015
Aye, looks great fun but knowing the nature of Arbroath sandstone I'm all for the bolts.
31 Mar, 2015
Good style not bolting it. Seems you could have made it a bit safer? Cam out by the right arete,3 or 4? Surely the point of such a route is the bottle aspect.With bolts it would just be a yet another blah tick. You at least will remember the experience of going for it in trad style. Bolt placers might want to use Blah Tick as a new route name... Mitch
31 Mar, 2015
Where? It's quite a long way away to that arĂȘte. You'd have to climb up another line, place the gear then downclimb, then climb up the left hahaha and it would a horrendous swing I imagine. Maybe I misunderstood? On that note, Neil has scoped out the right hand arete! Planning on leading possibly, harder than left hand maybe? Psyched!
31 Mar, 2015
Cam on the right arĂȘte? I'm with Robbie, that would be about as useful as a chocolate fireguard unless I'm missing something. A real shame the rock is so sandy and sometimes friable at Arbroath, particularly if at all damp ( when the pebbles can pop easily). Having said that there are a number of great wee routes there which the bolts make safe and relatively popular. From my perspective, as someone who has climbed there a lot, it is an ideal venue for sport routes and a marginal or downright poor one for trad, but what would I know;)
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