While filming for the First Ascent Series over the last couple years we were gathering footage in our nearby crack climbing Mecca of the Utah desert. Climbers head out there in the fall to work new projects, and they often get drawn in to the desert rat lifestyle and don't return back to civilization till the spring when the desert starts to overheat. Last year, Nick Martino, a young monkey who cut his teeth on Yosemite granite, got bit by the desert bug ... Its a wild, dynamic route, which will likely be the hardest climb in the desert once it goes.
Nice to see new Creek videos. I still can't get past the fact that James regularly falls into speaking English like it isn't his first language. Anyways, I think Nick Martino's attempts at this are the most watchable by miles.
brilliant effort! just a wee one to put a spanner in the works, i am a fat punter but proud daddy nowdays and could barely walk to the crag let alone climb this, but i cant help in thinking that the rope dangling from the chains on james's successful attempt seemed abit like a backup on the run-out bit?? seems abit cheeky to me? i think i would have maybe attempted the odd death route projects of mine in the past if this technique was accepted in a clean redpoint. Ioan Doyle
Admittedly it's a few feet to his right but the last runner is only at his feet when he clips the chains and it's practically level with him when he has done the hard moves and is manteling onto the ledge?
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