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How to choose a climbing wall

So, you've never been climbing and you'd like to try. How do you find a wall? What should you be looking for? Your guide to that is here.

Alternatively, you're going on a trip but if the weather's crap you don't feel like getting wet driving to the crags in a hopeful state only to be disappointed. It's time to head for a climbing wall. But which one?

When choosing a climbing wall, you have to answer three questions. In order of importance, they are:

Can you get there?

After all, it's not much use choosing a brilliant wall if you don't have a car or it's a hundred miles away. You need something which either you can drive to or get to by public transport. Perhaps obvious, but it does need saying.

Can you afford it?

Few things are quite as disheartening as getting somewhere and then finding that the remains of grant cheque or whatever else is in your wallet won't actually get you through the door. Many walls do have concessions if you're unemployed or a student (nothing special though if you're an unemployed student - too common) which are worth checking by phone first. And don't forget to factor in the expense of transport. Oh, and browsing in the gear shop. And buying a roll and cup of tea in the caff. And some pints afterwards. It really is true what they say - climbing is an expensive sport.

Can you do what you want to do there?

Ah, now we get to the heart of what this is really about. After all, if you can surf the Net it's not that likely you won't be able to afford to get to or into a climbing wall. But if you're looking for a first-time introduction, then a tiny wall which is overhanging all over for bouldering superhumans won't suit. And if you're looking for some solo bouldering, it won't be much use turning up at a wall where the options are leading or toproping and it's BYOH (Bring Your Own Harness) except you didn't.

Tell me about walls then, y'sod.

Walls fall into three classes, grungiest first.

1) Afterthoughts put into something else, typically a leisure centre. Often tucked away or inaccessible when other activities (eg badminton, the most popular indoor sport after swimming) are going on.

Examples: Swansea University, where the 'wall' is actually some breeze blocks broken up and concreted into one corner of the main sports hall. No mats, no routes, no fun. Also Moreton-in-Marsh Fire Service College, where the 'wall' is in a corridor and consists of bolt-on holds put there by some wall-destitute fire trainees once upon a time. Your options: traversing along its ten metres. Are we having fun yet? Actually, no.

Recommendation: only for the desperate.

2) Afterthoughts which got really good through some miracle, perhaps of planning.

Examples: the best must be the Brunel University wall, which is at the end of the main sports hall. This has an adjustable bouldering wall, routes that can be toproped or just bouldered, a roof room, cracks... they're all there. Then there's the Sobell Centre in London, which has a good traversing wall (in a corridor), a high bouldering wall (with mats), and a terrific overhanging leading wall. Yet it's all part of a leisure centre where you can be right beside trampolinists bouncing as high as you can climb.

Recommendation: can be a terrific time, and a great change from your usual wall, if you have one.

3) Dedicated centres. These are intended for you to go and climb at. These are the places to go when you want to climb. But even these aren't all created equal.

Examples: the classic one is the Foundry in Sheffield. If you weren't climbing when it was opened, you'll just have to read the back copies of the magazines to realise how excited people were. Wow, a place - in Sheffield - where you could climb! Climb indoors! After paying money! It's hard to say whether walls have actually contributed to erosion of the rock - you could argue that they've kept as many people locked safely inside on otherwise climbable days who might have gone outside and gone all over the rock.

When it comes to dedicated centres, there are basically two types:
a) adequate
b) brilliant.

Recommendation: definitely the ones to use, but variety is the spice of life - so don't get stuck in the rut of going to just the one wall. Try other ones when you can.