UKC

I'm struck by how some crags are becoming re-vegetated, sometimes to the point where routes are in danger of being lost, while at the same time there are numerous comments in logbook entries along the lines of "needs a good clean", which (sort of) implies that it's someone else's job. I wish more climbers would undertake a little maintenance at their local crags themselves - doesn't have to be much.

In particular, this crag Fairy Cave Quarry is in a bit of a state in recent years, despite its popularity. I know some others have been active here, but I can't help thinking that the current condition is largely due to the fact that I moved further away, and my FCQ visits became rare. Not to blow my own trumpet, but just to emphasise that even just one local person doing a bit regularly can make a big difference.

Anyone reading this thinking they'll go and carry out a bit of gardening, please note FCQ is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and as per the RAD please check with local BMC rep first.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=859

You make an important point, of course.

I'm talking about scraping out a few nut slots, maybe clipping back an obtrusive bramble or two - if we require a BMC consultation for that sort of thing, nothing will ever get done, and we might as well give up.

But yes, we need to be highly circumspect when tidying up routes, and if in any doubt, leave it alone.

There is an issue with ab ropes above some of the popular routes cutting grooves in the mud when pulled, this is causing a lot of dirt to be washed down the routes in the rain (and inevitably ending up in nut slots). Would be interested to hear if any other crags have solved this problem.

At the crag I mentioned, attempts have been made (on UKC, and in the latest guidebook) to encourage climbers to scramble down or use one of a few "approved" abseil sites. It hasn't solved the problem - abseiling from stakes back down the route is just too convenient - but is has perhaps improved things somewhat.

I'm at FCQ multiple times a week, it has definitely not improved! 

With regards to FCQ it probably needs some discreet notices as people are just doing what they've always done and not aware of the new abseil points.

Agreed. A notice attached in some way to the belay stakes atop Rob's Crack and Lumbar Puncture would be especially useful.

And Balch's Slide

At our local crag we have a surrounding forest which on occasion throws sapplings into the boulders below and sometimes onto the crag face. These are routinely chopped back which is great for the climbing but I wonder if other interest groups might have a different view. Hard to know where that line begins and ends but without those interventions, our local would be a different experience.

I routinely carry a light pair of secateurs on my rack at Wintours Leap -someone has to try and keep on top of the ivy, brambles and thorn bushes on the routes and keep the paths reasonably clear.  

The nettles need something larger - I have a ferocious brushing hook for those, very handy when first onto the terraces at Cheddar when they open after the summer.

If you want to see vegetated, take a look at Craig Cau sometime.