Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A stunning and historically significant hard route which has seen very few on-sight ascents. Get to the spike belay below the top headwall on Cream. As for Cream, then make a hard move to gain the crack on the left. Follow this until it peters out and make hard and difficult moves up left to easier climbing near the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A route that has stood the test of time and still sees very few on-sights. Sustained with a crux at the bottom and another at the top. Originally graded E5 7a and once considered the hardest route in the country. The second ascent was made by an unknown youth at the time called Jerry Moffatt.
Ron Fawcett 1980.
Extreme Rock , North Wales Super Route E6's , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Classic Lobs , 100 Worthwhile E7's , UK Crack Hitlist , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Another lifelist?
There is no feedback for this climb.
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E7 7a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))