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Crag Notes  © Tessa Lyons

Article Crag Notes - August is upon us...

Crag Notes is a new series to UKC, focussing on people and place. Distilled down into short form, each piece will centre around our connection with the outdoors (and what's within it) in some way, shape or form; however, each will differ in their own unique way, as we'll be featuring a variety of contributors, some of whom will be familiar, others less so. In the first part of a new series Rob Greenwood takes a look at The Diamond...

Iraq's first climbing school.  © Aso Golmohamad

Iraq's First Mountaineering and Climbing School

Friendly scenes at the WTF 2019.  © Jessie Leong
Friendly scenes at the WTF 2019.  © Jessie Leong

My Weekend as a Learner at the Women's Trad Festival

Christine Liang writes about her experience as a learner at the Women's Trad Festival... Women are risk averse creatures. Or so historically car insurance brokers seems to suggest, and business people and behavioural psychologists....

Gogarth Main Cliff.  © Sarah-Jane Dobner
Gogarth Main Cliff.  © Sarah-Jane Dobner

Gogarth - A Gala Performance

Gogarth took to the stage - cliffs and humans and animals - all larger than life. A place of arias, disguises, pomp, extravagance and showy dramatics. The Hollywood of Wales! Diva territory! Poems from a glorious long weekend in May by Sarah-Jane Dobner...

Janja Garnbret pulls off another feat of impressive competition climbing in Munich, 2019.  © Sytse van Slooten/IFSC
Janja Garnbret pulls off another feat of impressive competition climbing in Munich, 2019.  © Sytse van Slooten/IFSC

Tokyo 2020 Olympic Selection Explained

It's exactly one year to go until the first day of Sport Climbing action at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. IFSC Commentator...

'I want climbing to be a big part of my life, but I also want to be less tied up in it.'  © Matt Crawford
'I want climbing to be a big part of my life, but I also want to be less tied up in it.'  © Matt Crawford

Coming Back

My fingers feel frozen but sweat beads on my forehead as I battle the waves of anxiety; I need to focus on the task at hand but my scattered brain...

'But what's she done on grit?'  © Andy Dodd
'But what's she done on grit?'  © Andy Dodd

Interview Meet Kat, The Climbing Adventure Cat

You've heard of crag dogs, but what about crag cats? Our feline friends typically prefer to go on adventures of their...


Lenin Peak, North Face: Standard route ascends middle of glacier then trends right and goes on to right ridge line via Camp 1.  © JSTaylor

Lenin Peak 7,134m - The World's easiest Seven Thousander?

Lenin Peak, which sits on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, is widely cited as the world's easiest 7000m summit. While in a strict technical sense that might be correct, this remains a serious mountain that, during its short summer seaso...

Anyone keen for Albarracin now? ;o)  © Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH
Anyone keen for Albarracin now? ;o)  © Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH

Albarracin: Spanish Sandstone Bouldering

Albarracin is an extremely popular bouldering destination in eastern Spain. Easily accessible, abundant in low to mid grade problems and with extremely reliable weather, the area is a fantastic alternative to Fontainebleau for a Spring or...

Oli Grounsell and Nathan Lee making the most of the fantastic evening light  © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing
Oli Grounsell and Nathan Lee making the most of the fantastic evening light  © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing

The Five Best E6 Routes in the UK and Ireland?

Back in 2014 we published a series of articles in/around the five best routes of each grade; however, for reasons unknown E6 escaped - hence it seemed like high time someone saw to it.

Rock Idol  © Stefan Morris
Rock Idol  © Stefan Morris

Beyond the South Pembroke Top 50 - E1 to E5

So you've ticked your way through a bunch of the Rockfax top 50 classics. You've fondled the relative...

Alan James on Sergeyenna, another of the crag's many classic E1s  © Rob Greenwood - UKC
Alan James on Sergeyenna, another of the crag's many classic E1s  © Rob Greenwood - UKC

Chee Tor

Rob Greenwood takes a look at one of the jewels in the crown of Peak Limestone

Mont Qualido big-walling in Val di Mello.  © Michael Bortoluzzi
Mont Qualido big-walling in Val di Mello.  © Michael Bortoluzzi

Monte Qualido Big Walls - Val di Mello

Getting into big walling is not necessarily easy. Between acquiring all the necessary equipment, learning, as...

Stu on Superjam  © Matthew Conor  www.matthewconor.com
Stu on Superjam  © Matthew Conor  www.matthewconor.com

A Masochist's Tour of Cornwall's Offwidths

It could be said that the wide world of offwidth cracks is an acquired taste! Representing the obnoxious...


Tim Neill on Directes des Capucines  © Calum Muskett

altitude and acclimatisation High Altitude and Acclimatisation Part 4 - Training and Preparation for High-Altitude

In the final part of our four-part series on acclimatisation, Jamie...

A typical visit to a sport crag.  © Adam Perrett
A typical visit to a sport crag.  © Adam Perrett

Sport Climbing 10 Things to Do at a Sport Crag

Compared with Himalayan, Alpine or even trad climbing, sport climbing should be a relatively safe affair. But the very fact that it should be relatively safe means that many people don't take it as seriously as they need to. And therein lies the potential...

Correct body position for side-pulls.  © Nick Brown
Correct body position for side-pulls.  © Nick Brown

Neil Gresham Technique and Training Using Undercuts and Sidepulls

Many climbers find that they're OK at pulling straight down, but for some reason when the holds are upside down or face sideways they always seem to struggle. It's no surprise that we're prone to getting flustered when confronted by undercuts, side-pulls or...

Tim enjoying big boot top rope action on Rap.  © Misha Nepogodiev
Tim enjoying big boot top rope action on Rap.  © Misha Nepogodiev

British Mountain Guide British Mountain Guide Training Scheme Entrance Exams

BMG Trainee Misha Nepogodiev finds out that you have to expect the unexpected in order to pass the Entrance Exams for the BMG Training Scheme. After my application for the BMG training scheme was accepted last June, I was looking...

The classic Entrèves traverse. Despite the ease of access, climbers have been evacuated by helicopter with cases of HAPE.  © Calum Muskett
The classic Entrèves traverse. Despite the ease of access, climbers have been evacuated by helicopter with cases of HAPE.  © Calum Muskett

altitude and acclimatisation High Altitude and Acclimatisation Part 3 - Can we fast-track Acclimatisation?

In the third of our four-part series on acclimatisation, Jamie Macdonald (high altitude physiologist at Bangor University) and Calum Muskett (professional climber and mountaineering instructor), delve into the...

Fulmar  © Brian

birds How to Identify Common Seabirds

Here, the index finger of the left hand is removed...  © Nick Brown - UKC

Neil Gresham Technique and Training Handholds and Grip Technique - Part 3

Ally Swinton climbing Castor.  © Calum Muskett

altitude and acclimatisation High Altitude and Acclimatisation Part 2 - Adapting to High Altitude

When pockets are very sloping and marginal...  © Nick Brown - UKC

Neil Gresham Technique and Training Handholds and Grip Technique - Part 2


Paul Cox on Right Eliminate, Curbar  © Mike Hutton

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Curbar

Marmot Photography Awards 2018  © UKC

Photo Awards Marmot Photography Awards 2018

Jack Lawdedge on Trail of Dreams E4 6A  © Mike Hutton

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Rhoscolyn

James Ibbertson on The Wall of Horrors, Almscliff  © Mike Hutton

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Almscliff


El Portrero Chico  © Jacob Roman

El Potrero Chico - Multi-pitch Sport Climbing in Mexico

'The idea of going to El Potrero Chico, Mexico was agreed on. I got in touch with Peter to say I was going to be in North America between February and March. Wanting sunshine and multi-pitch sport climbing El Portrero kept coming up in discussions...

Big exposure on Riso Patron Sur.  © Silvan Schüpbach
Big exposure on Riso Patron Sur.  © Silvan Schüpbach

Expedition Riso Patron Sur

In February/March 2018, Matteo Della Bordella (ITA) and Silvan Schüpbach (SUI) climbed the Riso Patron Sur in Chile, establishing King Kong (900m, M7+, 90°). They sent in the following report.

Benno on pitch 9 of Alexandra Supernova.  © Benno Wagner
Benno on pitch 9 of Alexandra Supernova.  © Benno Wagner

New Multi-Pitch in Kyrgyzstan - Alexandra Supernova

"Kyrgyzstan! Wow! Where is that? Can you climb there?" Almost everyone asks me this whenever I start to tell the story of my last summer-holiday. "Yes, you can!" Kyrgyzstan is the home of the Pamir-Alai-Mountains. There are many...

The team on the summit  © GMHM
The team on the summit  © GMHM

New French Route on Baffin Island

In May, a team from the Chamonix-based GMHM (the French mountain military) opened a new route on Baffin Island, Canada....

Ciaran on approach  © John Proctor
Ciaran on approach  © John Proctor

Jiptik Valley 2016

In July of this year, Robert Taylor, John Proctor, Ciaran Mullan and Phil Dawson headed to the Jiptik valley in Southeast Kyrgyzstan....

Polar Daze on Mount Hannes  © Paul Seabrook
Polar Daze on Mount Hannes  © Paul Seabrook

Greenland - New Peaks, New Routes

Can I commit to a trip to Greenland this summer? Can I commit quickly? Can I commit now!? A personal account of...

Delicate granite slab climbing on The Bad Man of Bodie  © Wil Treasure
Delicate granite slab climbing on The Bad Man of Bodie  © Wil Treasure

The Bad Man from Bodie - Greenland New Routing

Wil Treasure and Duncan Barrack share a trip report from Greenland's Tasermiut Fjord, where they...


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