The Finest Routes in the Alps
Lenzspitze (4294m) – ENE Ridge and Traverse – AD, III+, 950m
All photos, drawings and text by Ben Tibbetts
in association with
ALPINE ATTACK 35:35
The Alpine Attack ticks every box for the modern alpinist. It’s light, tough, clean and stacked with useful features that make life easier when climbing in harsh mountain conditions. Whether you're planning on tackling a big route in Patagonia or planning week ice climbing in the Scottish Highlands next winter the Alpine Attack is the right choice for the multi-discipline climber.
ALPINE ATTACK ND 35:45
The Alpine Attack ND has been designed specifically for female alpinists. Definitely not just a different colour, the ND series has a shorter back-length, and a different harness and hipbelt to the standard model. If you are a female alpinist with a big ticklist for the next 12 months choose the Alpine Attack ND as your regular climbing partner.
PEAK ATTACK 32
With a classic single-compartment design, the Peak Attack remains true to the traditional ethos of mountain packs, yet offers a unique and award winning feature set. With new double HeadLocker axe attachments, unique Tip-Grippers for attaching poles, and ski slots designed to carry even the widest power skis, the Peak Attack provides everything need for time spent in the mountains.
Andy Schnarf and Andreas Zimmermann at the start of the Lenzspitze - Nadelhorn ridge
Route
The best climbing and most solid rock are to be found by following the ridgeline throughout. There are many rappel anchors scattered along the route for short descents though all of these can be down climbed without undue difficulty.
From pt. 3815 follow the ridge horizontally until it begins to ascend. Climb the blocky ribs and ridge above to the base of the Grand Gendarme. Climb the first step then down into a small notch. Continue up the slabby ridge above to the summit of the Grand Gendarme (4091m). Down climb a few metres (or rappel) into the notch beyond and continue to the base of a steep broad buttress. Though this can be climbed on the rubble to the left the best line takes the corner visible just to the right of centre. This is climbed directly (3c) to then regain the crest and thus to the top of the buttress. From here a steep (45º) and sometimes narrow snow ridge leads to the final rocks below the summit of the Lenzspitze (4294m).
Andy Schnarf and Andreas Zimmermann on the Lenzspitze - Nadelhorn ridge
Descent
If you’re heading all the way to Saas Fee take a minute to enjoy the view first then probably some pain killers. Start down the NE ridge by climbing down under the summit rocks on the E side of the ridge. Depending on the season this will either be mixed or dry rock. Follow the NE ridge, avoiding any cornicing, to the Windjoch (3845m). Take a wide line around the steepest section of the slope and head SSE back across the glacier and down to the Schwarzhorn and thus the hut. The walk back down to the village is likely to leave you fairly worked.
Looking back towards the Lenzspitze from near the Nadelhorn summit