New content at last month

© Beth Rodden
This month we've got 17 new articles, 8 product announcements and 3 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers.

Featured articles

Alpine Introduction - By Rich Cross BMG 31-Mar-08
[The rewards of an Alpine bivvy, 1 kb]by Rich Cross - Alpine Guides

Rich Cross takes us through the basics of Alpinism. Going Up, Getting back down! Crossing crevasses and snow slopes, avoiding avalanches and acclimatising properly. This intro article...

@ full article or forums discussion

A Golden Week on the Ben 29-Mar-08
[Steve on Smith's Route, 1 kb]by plummet

Sometimes it happens. A route, a day, or a whole trip that makes it all worthwhile. A reward for weekend after weekend of trudging through loose powder, repeated failure, motivational crises, hot-aches, standing at belays being gradually buried in spindrift, agonising over weather forecasts, and all the usual pleasures associated with Scottish...

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The Affabulateurs 27-Mar-08
[Jeremy Collins, 2 kb]by Christian Beckwith

Mal Duff, Scottish winter climbing legend, had reached an impasse. On a new route on Stob Coire nan Lochan, an overhanging recess reared up before him. All had gone well until this moment,...

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I Want That Job! - Jim Nichols, Director, Entre-Prises 25-Mar-08
[Jim Nichols - Company Man, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

In this new article series I Want That Job! I'll be interviewing people from various professions within the climbing world. It's the turn of Jim Nichols, Operations Director at Entre-Prises Climbing Walls. Designing and building state of the art climbing walls has got to be great fun, right?

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How To Get Free Kit 25-Mar-08
[Not long now. Keep pushing., 2 kb]by Andy Kirkpatrick

Andy Kirkpatrick, gear reviewer extraordinaire shares his wisdom: "A young climber came up and asked if I could give him some advice. He told me he was planning on soloing the Eiger, and wanted to know if I had any ideas about getting some sponsorship for the climb. All I could say was “Well if you're going to solo the Eiger what gear would you...

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Pat Littlejohn - What has Climbing done for you? 25-Mar-08
[Pat Littlejohn, 2 kb]by Pat Littlejohn

I suspect it doesn't come naturally for climbers to step back and look objectively at the part climbing plays in their lives. I certainly never gave it much thought, but recently something came up at the BMC which made me and others try to evaluate the 'worth' of climbing, both to ourselves and to wider society... Pat Littlejohn looks at the...

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Proud to be a Bumbly 21-Mar-08
[Tip 3 - Pull on anything!, 2 kb]by David Hume

David Hume (AKA Full Stottie) takes us on a few historical adventures and realises on the way that perhaps he is a bumbly after all. And actually he quite likes it...

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I Want That Job! - Brendan Kendell - Desert Explorer 17-Mar-08
[Brendan under the 1200m face of Jebel Misht, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

In this article series I Want That Job! I'll be interviewing people from various professions within the climbing world. This time it's the turn of Brendan Kendell. His job involves...

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Beth Rodden - Meltdown E11? - Interview 16-Mar-08
[Beth Rodden, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor -UKC

Beth Rodden is 28 years old and lives in Yosemite, California with her husband Tommy Caldwell. She is an exceptionally talented climber, with previous ascents up to 5.14b/F8c (The Optimist - First Ascent). I spoke to Beth to find out more about her climbing and her new route The Meltdown...

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What do you do on a Friday night? 14-Mar-08
[Tom Dixon, 2 kb]by Mick Ryan -

Mick Ryan describes a random Friday night in Ambleside, Cumbria that involves If 6 Was 9 an E9 6c at Iron Crag, checking five different websites for the conditions in Chamonix, a session on...

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Dave Macleod - 8c Solo - Interview 13-Mar-08
[Dave soloing Darwin Dixit - look at that 1 arm grip!, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

Dave MacLeod is the author of perhaps the worlds hardest traditional route; Rhapsody E11. He has just soloed Darwin Dixit (F8c) and as far as we know this is the hardest solo in the world....

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Navigation with an Altimeter 12-Mar-08
[Dawn Skinning, 2 kb]by Al Powell

Until recently, altimeters were regarded as exotic pieces of kit only really used for expeditions and ski mountaineering. However, with the advent of light and affordable altimeter...

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PREVIEW: Climb Magazine - the April issue 10-Mar-08
[James Pearson on the Cratcliffe Groove © David Simmonite, 2 kb]by climbmagazine

Check out what's coming up in the April issue of Climb Magazine including 8 pages dedicated to the exclusive James Pearson feature together with some fantastic photographs including the front cover shot, Andy Earl's Stomping Ground Northumberland, All the Brown/Whillans routes on Staffordshire gritstone in a day? – Andi Turner takes on the...

@ full article

Competitions - A Personal Journey 05-Mar-08
[Rhys Dobbs, 3 kb]by R_Dobbs

Forum User Rhys Dobbs is 24 years old and is in the Royal Air Force. He has been climbing for just two years. He recently faced his fears and pursued his dream by entering the Ice...

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Katy Whittaker on Kaluza Klein - Grit E7 05-Mar-08
[Katy Whittaker, 3 kb]by Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

2007 British Bouldering Champion Katy Whittaker has climbed Kaluza Klein - E7 6c. Katy was born in 1989 and has been climbing since 1997. She has recently flashed Nosferatu (E6 6b) and head-pointed Life Assurance (E6 6b) at Burbage. We spoke to her after Kaluza Klein about her next projects and who she climbs with...

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@ more articles...

...Featured articles

FAQ - Ski Mountaineering – It's for you! 06-Mar-08
[Guy Willett - Ski Expert, 2 kb]by Guy Willett

There is far more to ski mountaineering than quiche eating, mullets and Ray-Ban sunglasses. For many Brits visiting the Alps in winter, the biggest set back is trudging through waist deep...

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How to get the best out of your camera in the Mountains 13-Mar-08
[Winter sunrise over the Vallee Blanche, 2 alpinists on the RHS, 2 kb]by Jon Griffith

Jon Griffith explains: One by one I started to work out how to make film speed, aperture, and shutter speed all work together so I could try and get the maximum out of every shot I took. I...

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Latest Product News
Announcements direct from the manufacturers
The Phantom 28-Mar-08
[DMM Phantom, 1 kb]by DMM

The DMM Phantom carabiner: Weight: 25.5 Grams; Major Axis: 23Kn; Minor axis: 7Kn; Gate open: 9Kn; Construction: Hot Forged 'I Beam'. Just how have we managed to achieve these excellent vital statistics?

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Elite Ultralite Ziplock 27-Mar-08
[The awesome new Elite, stylish, safe and Ultralite, 2 kb]by Wild Country

A class above the Elite does exactly what it says - and provides an ultralite harness for those climbers who don't want to compromise in their pursuit of the best....

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Peak District Climbing 27-Mar-08
[Amanda Skeldon on Sunset Crack (VS 4c), Froggatt., 2 kb]by Vertebrate Publishing

Peak District Climbing features over 850 of the Peak District's best routes and boulder problems. The Peak's best gritstone and limestone crags are all covered, including Stanage, Froggatt, The Roaches, Stoney Middleton and Wildcat.

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SkitoStop 27-Mar-08
[Nikwax SkitoStop Sun Screen with insect repellant, 2 kb]by Nikwax Ltd

SkitoStop, A range of products designed to protect you from the harmful effects of the sun and biting insects.

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BUG - Backpack for single day multi-pitch climbing 14-Mar-08
[The Bug, 2 kb]by Lyon Equipment

The BUG was designed specifically for multipitch,long routes that are done in a single day. Its rounded rectangular shape maximizes volume and minimizes interference while in use. The volume of the BUG is ideal for carrying gear on the approach and when climbing (hydration system, guidebook/topo, clothing, shoes, etc). Everything has been designed...

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Satellite Messenger 13-Mar-08
[SPOT Satellite Messenger #1, 2 kb]by Adventure Trading Ltd

SPOT - The Great New Handheld GPS Texting and Emergency 999 Device. Small, light, robust, waterproof and floats, with very long battery life (2 Lithium AAs). It sends your location and brief text messages to emergency services, family and friends.

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Peak District Bouldering 12-Mar-08
[Peak District Bouldering Cover, 2 kb]by Rupert Davies and Jon Barton

Covering virtually every good problem in the Peak, every major grit crag and pretty much every minor crag. A collaboration between in-house authors and experienced climber Rupert Davies,...

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Northern England 07-Mar-08
[Northern England Rockfax #1, 3 kb]by ROCKFAX

The latest Rockfax guidebook which covers the best crags on Yorkshire Gritstone, the North York Moors and Northumberland. Over 2300 routes on 38 crags with text description, large full-colour photo-topos, detailed approach maps, graphic symbols and all the usual extras found in the World's best rock climbing guidebooks.

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Gear Reviews
Independent reviews from the UKC gear testers
Xenon Lite Quickdraw 27-Mar-08
[Andrew Lanham on M6 Solar, 3 kb]by Jon Griffith

Here I am five years later with a new set of impossibly light quickdraws (65 grams!) thinking “how on earth did they do that?” Jon Griffith gives the new offering from WC a thorough...

@ full review or forums discussion

Superlight Rocks 26-Mar-08
[Extracting a Superlight 4 with ease, 4 kb]by Jon Griffith

My main problem with these Superlights is that I'm completely addicted to them! I never leave for the mountains without them and they have been a real lifesaver many times this winter. In fact I can't get enough of them... Jon Griffith falls in love!

@ full review or forums discussion

Turbo Express Ice Screw 11-Mar-08
[Final Pitch of Nuit Blanche (WI6), Argentiere Ice falls, 2 kb]by Jon Griffith

Now-a-days we are bombarded with top of the line gear from different manufacturers, each claiming that theirs is the new 'must have' item. When it comes to ice screws it can be hard to pick one over the others. At the end of the day I don't think you should be too fussy about saving £5 here or there, just go and get what works best for you. Would...

@ full review or forums discussion

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