New content at UKClimbing.com this month

This month we've got 17 new articles, 10 product announcements and 2 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers.

Featured articles

I Want That Job! - Andi Turner - Instructor and Teacher 26-Feb-08
[andi turner, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

In this new article series I Want That Job! I'll be interviewing people from various professions within the climbing world. It's the turn of Forum User Andi Turner to persuade us all why we...

@ full article or forums discussion

VIDEO: George Ullrich on Master's Edge by Dave Gill 25-Feb-08
[Dave Gill filming George Ullrich on Anabolica 8a, at Campi Qui Puigui, Siurana, Spain, 4 kb]by Mick Ryan - Editor

Eighteen year old Dave Gill of Kendal started making films when he was 13 years old after he got his first video camera, a 'Sharp something-or-other'. He has made several corporate, music and promo films and now he is turning his attention to climbing and last year established Steepmedia to do...

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Mush 24-Feb-08
[Rolando Garibotti climbing the summit mushroom of Cerro Torre, 1 kb]by Rolando Garibotti

Ever wondered how climbers get past the summit ice mushrooms of Cerro Torre? Rolando Garibotti explains; "The last mushroom, 200 feet of looming vertical cotton candy above. Ale took a stab...

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An Interview with Rolando Garibotti about the Torre Traverse 24-Feb-08
[Colin Haley and Rolando Garibotti on the summit of Cerro Torre, 3 kb]by Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

On the 21st of January 2008 Colin Haley and Rolando Garibotti became the first people to climb the infamous Torre Traverse, linking the mountains of Aguja Standhart, Punta Heron, Torre...

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Dolomites and the Weisshorn 22-Feb-08
[Brian Manton, hands shot after climbing Torre Winkler, Vajolet Towers, Dolomites, route grade 6, one section 'artificial aid'., 1 kb]by Alan Heason

"Dear Alan, I remember clearly as if it was yesterday the two weeks that I spent with you in the Dolomites and then we moved on to the Alps. They were probably the hardest two weeks...

@ full article or forums discussion

The Ford SkyMasters Challenge at the OS Outdoors Show 19-Feb-08
[The SkyMasters Challenge Wall 4, 2 kb]by UKC News

We take a look at a very interesting competition climbing wall that will be a centerpiece at the forthcoming Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show held 14-16th March at the NEC Birmingham. The Ford...

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Centurion - An epic day on Ben Nevis 16-Feb-08
[Centurion, 3 kb]by Pete Benson

Pete Benson describes a winter ascent of Centurion: "Full on blizzard conditions raged as I crept along the Route II slabs; the last time I was there ten years ago I skipped across on...

@ full article or forums discussion

UK Bouldering 2007: The UK's Best Boulderers 12-Feb-08
[James Pearson on Ganymede Takeover 8B flash, 3 kb]by Tom Dixon

It was a tough task choosing the best boulderers from amongst Britain's bouldering elite. Many UK based boulderers have been active at the highest levels and I believe that this year the...

@ full article or forums discussion

Flurry of winter desperates from Guy Robertson 08-Feb-08
[Centurion, 3 kb]by Jack Geldard

Guy Robertson has had an exceptional Scottish season so far, with a flurry of desperate new routes and fast repeats of various test pieces. Partnering up with some of the UK's leading...

@ full article or forums discussion

I Want That Job! - Maurizio Oviglia, International Climbing... 07-Feb-08
[Maurizio Oviglia on the First Ascent of Mezzogiono di Fuoco (8b), 3 kb]by Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

In this new article series I Want That Job! I'll be interviewing people from various professions within the climbing world. I first met Maurizio on a BMC International Meet at Plas y Brenin a few years ago. I caught up with him again, to see if his job really is just jetting off around the world and getting paid to climb...

@ full article or forums discussion

Alpine Reminiscence 2007 03-Feb-08
[andyhouseman.jpg, 2 kb]by Nick Bullock

In the winter of 1972 the Colton-MacIntyre was attempted by Bonnington, Burke, Clarke and Haston. A plane flew the team and a deposit of equipment onto the Leschaux glacier, where, after 17...

@ full article or forums discussion

New Content at UKClimbing.com in January 2007 03-Feb-08
[Steve McClure on Overshadow, 9a+, Malham Cove, North Yorkshire, 3 kb]by UKC News

A summary of all the latest content on UKClimbing.com from the past month, including: 57 new articles, 11 product announcements and 2 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers.

@ full article or forums discussion

Vallee Blanche Full Moon Descent 03-Feb-08
[caption 1, 3 kb]by Jon Griffith

"If you want to veer off the beaten track and immerse yourself in the mountains without too much risk then I can highly recommend descending the Vallee Blanche under a full moon. Glaciers under a full moon provide ample light to climb and ski without any need for a head torch. Last month was no exception and with a high full moon arching over the...

@ full article or forums discussion

The Cirque de Gavarnie – Cascades in the French Pyrenees 18-Feb-08
[Cirque de Gavarnie, 2 kb]by Tom Briggs

"Icefall climbing in mainland Europe is becoming increasingly popular, with venues such as Chamonix, Cogne and La Grave getting busier and busier. When I was invited to visit the French...

@ full article or forums discussion

Todra Gorge - Morocco FAQ 26-Feb-08
[Gorge climbing, Wangy, 3 kb]by Glyn Jones

Want to visit the Todra gorge in Morocco for climbing? Here's a little info to help you on the way.

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@ more articles...

...Featured articles

FAQ - Buying a rack 20-Feb-08
[A rack of gear, 3 kb]by Alan James and Adrian Berry

How much should you spend on your first rack of gear? This short article gives some indication of what you should buy and how much you might expect to pay. It is based on a section in the book Trad CLIMBING + published by @ full article

UKC Features

Last Great Chimney on Ben Nevis, Font WI 10 X 14-Feb-08
[Stevie Wonder in action., 2 kb]by Marshall Gaz, Roberta Jinglestop, With thanks to Fairy Wife and the Turnipmaker

Captain Vivacious and Stevie Wonder climb the Last Great Chimney on Ben Nevis, Font WI 10 X or the sit start (without a pad, spotters, or the aformentioned insulation). Will recent ascentionists of The Know-How on the Onion rise to the challenge? Marshall Gaz, Roberta Jinglestop, With thanks to Fairy Wife and the Turnipmaker report in this yet...

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Latest Product News
Announcements direct from the manufacturers
Minim Ultra Down Sleeping Bag 24-Feb-08
[Minim Ultra Down Sleeping Bag #1, 2 kb]by PHD Mountain Software

The Minim Ultra down sleeping bag is our ultralight summer special. This is a full down bag at 365gm (13oz)—summer marathon competitors and extra-keen packpackers take note. MX fabric inner...

@ full item or forums discussion

Hispar Down Jacket 22-Feb-08
[Hispar Down Jacket #1, 3 kb]by PHD Mountain Software

The new Hispar is a truly lightweight down jacket for high mountain use. The push to take increasingly light gear on every kind of route can mean that those difficult decisions between weight and warmth become even more awkward. The Hispar is intended to make them a little easier.

@ full item or forums discussion

Shadow Quickdraw 21-Feb-08
[Shadow Quickdraw, 2 kb]by DMM

The perfect sport climbing quickdraw from DMM. The Shadow is light, strong, and has a clean nose which makes clipping and stripping quick and easy.

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Spirit Express 13-Feb-08
[Spirit, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

Petzl's SPIRIT is a shining example of the near perfect carabiner - suitable for all climbing applications - sport, trad, mixed, ice or alpine. Subtle features brought together in one design are the result of a vision, careful planning and meticulous engineering. Beneath the beauty of the SPIRIT are several distinctive features that all add up to...

@ full item or forums discussion

Cheap Bastard Crash Pad 12-Feb-08
[Metolius Cheap Bastard Crash Pad, 2 kb]by Beyond Hope

The Cheap Bastard uses our proven hinged-design and the highest-quality fabrics and foams available, but we cut out all the bells and whistles so we could bring it to you at a price that won't hurt your wallet.

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Harness Series 11-Feb-08
[Arc'teryx Harness, 3 kb]by Big Stone

Arc'teryx Equipment is proud to introduce the next generation of climbing harnesses. After three years of research and development, the new line represents a completely new genre of...

@ full item

Torpedo 06-Feb-08
[Cruc Torpedo 500, 2 kb]by Crux

The Torpedoes are new waterproof, breathable eVent-shelled down sleeping bags from Crux that solve an enduring problem; how to keep down dry within a completely waterproof, very breathable...

@ full item or forums discussion

Hera - womans specific climbing shoe 03-Feb-08
[Hera, 3 kb]by Beyond Hope

The HERA is a women specific performance shoe with a non-aggressive fit, designed for women or anyone with narrow, low-volume feet. Support the HERA Women's Cancer Foundation with the purchase of this shoe! 1% of all sales on this model will be donated to the HERA Foundation.

@ full item or forums discussion

Batura 02-Feb-08
[La Sportiva Batura, 3 kb]by Lyon Equipment

New technical boot for winter alpinism ideal for every type of climbing: ice, mixed, classical mountaineering, ice excursionism. Thanks to its six layer insulating structure, it guarantees excellent heat retention which has been tested even in extreme conditions on Himalayan summits, even if an...

@ full item or forums discussion

Pulse Barryvox Avalanche Transceiver 02-Feb-08
[Pulse Barryvox Avalanche Transciever, 2 kb]by Mammut

Pulse Barryvox Avalanche Transciever was designed to optimize rescue efforts in the The PULSE handles single and multiple burial tracking with the ability to select and lock on to subjects one at a time. The easy to interpret "map view" display gives an overview of the rescue scene with the number and locations of each buried victim.

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Gear Reviews
Independent reviews from the UKC gear testers
Stratus Hooded Jacket 29-Feb-08
[Stratus Hooded Jacket, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

I've had quite a few belay jackets over the years, which have ranged in quality from useless to life-saving, so I was interested to see how this one would perform. The Stratus is Mammut's synthetic belay jacket, designed for belaying and bivvying in extremely low temperatures. It is filled with man-made insulation to cope with getting wet. I've...

@ full review or forums discussion

Marmot Shell Clothing - Four Months Use 27-Feb-08
[North Face of the Courtes - extremely low temperatures, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

Last November I gave an initial review of Marmot's Super Hero and Exum shell clothing. I've put it all through the mill over the last four months. Is it still in one piece?

@ full review or forums discussion

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