UKC

Ryuichi Murai's First Ascent of Nexus, 8C+

© @odamomo36

More than a year and a half after making the ascent, Ryuichi Murai has released the video of Nexus 8C+, a 30+ move roof climb in Shiobara, Japan.

The boulder, which was the second of Murai's three 8C+ first ascents, links two pre-existing 8B+ boulders, and took Murai more than five years to complete.

Less than two months after climbing Nexus, Murai established perhaps his most well known 8C+ boulder, Floatin', in Mizugaki, Japan, before making a high-profile repeat of Jimmy Webb's Sleepwalker (f8C+) earlier this year, which he climbed after having worked the boulder for just eight days.

Speaking after making the ascent of Nexus in 2021, Murai said:

'The difficulty in achieving this line was that in addition to the large number of moves and high strength, the accumulation of mental stress due to slight squeaks and mistakes greatly affected performance', with the main challenge of the route being not only 'endurance', but also 'how sophisticated the movement could be'.

Murai continued, 'After understanding the logic, I thoroughly reviewed all the moves again and practiced repeatedly until my body naturally started to move without thinking'.

Check out the video of the ascent below, where you can really see what Murai means about repeating the moves until they were second-nature. The move at 3:49 is a thing of beauty:




5 Jun, 2023

Any fule kno Nexus only E1.

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