More than a year and a half after making the ascent, Ryuichi Murai has released the video of Nexus 8C+, a 30+ move roof climb in Shiobara, Japan.
The boulder, which was the second of Murai's three 8C+ first ascents, links two pre-existing 8B+ boulders, and took Murai more than five years to complete.
Less than two months after climbing Nexus, Murai established perhaps his most well known 8C+ boulder, Floatin', in Mizugaki, Japan, before making a high-profile repeat of Jimmy Webb's Sleepwalker (f8C+) earlier this year, which he climbed after having worked the boulder for just eight days.
Speaking after making the ascent of Nexus in 2021, Murai said:
'The difficulty in achieving this line was that in addition to the large number of moves and high strength, the accumulation of mental stress due to slight squeaks and mistakes greatly affected performance', with the main challenge of the route being not only 'endurance', but also 'how sophisticated the movement could be'.
Murai continued, 'After understanding the logic, I thoroughly reviewed all the moves again and practiced repeatedly until my body naturally started to move without thinking'.
Check out the video of the ascent below, where you can really see what Murai means about repeating the moves until they were second-nature. The move at 3:49 is a thing of beauty:
- ARTICLE: Kendal 2023: The Future of Hard Bouldering - Will Bosi, Jerry Moffatt, Shauna Coxsey 25 Sep
- VIDEO: Will Bosi climbs Alphane, 9A 5 Jun
- INTERVIEW: 9a and E9 for 'hidden' climber Rob Sutton 2 Jun
- INTERVIEW: 100 x Fontainebleau 7A boulders in a day for Séb Berthe and Hugo Parmentier 25 May
- INTERVIEW: Robbie Phillips on Valinor E9, his approach to new routes, and his next big project 24 May
- INTERVIEW: Jorge Diaz Rullo on hard first ascents, and even harder projects 19 May
- INTERVIEW: Sam Prior on projects, parenthood, and new perspectives 16 May
- INTERVIEW: The Rising Son E8 6c for Ferdia Earle 2 May
- INTERVIEW: Sébastien Berthe on flashing Le Voyage, E10 7a 17 Apr
- INTERVIEW: Solly Kemball Dorey on his 8B+ FA, Tempest in a Teapot 13 Apr
Comments
Any fule kno Nexus only E1.