The Finest Routes of the Alps
Aletschhorn (4193m) - North-East Arête 1200m, PD, I
Ben Tibbetts
in association with
Stuart Johnston in the tunnel under Tälligrat
Photo © Ben Tibbetts
Conditions
In ideal conditions you would find the complex and crevassed traverse of the Aletsch Glacier smoothed over with consolidated snow. This is most likely from March to May. Higher on the mountain solid névé will speed progress from the exposed Aletschjoch ridge (3623m) and on towards the summit. Most of the route approaching the Mittelaletsch bivouac hut (3013m) is on low angle terrain (i.e. low risk of triggering an avalanche) except the last 200m, which touch 30º. Nevertheless several passages are exposed to avalanche from the slopes above so timing is critical. The summit day is on a mixture of snow slopes to 45º with short yet exposed arêtes. The final summit ridge has mixed rock passages. On the descent the slopes back to the bivouac hut face south-east and heat up rapidly. An early start and steady progress is necessary.
Stuart Johnston near the Aletschjoch
Photo © Ben Tibbetts
Descent
Return by the same route to ski back to the Aletsch Glacier and on to Fiescheralp. Alternatives: a) Directly below the summit cross are the final slops of the South-West Ridge normal route. This could be descended to complete a traverse of the mountain). b) On returning Aletschjoch, if the snow conditions are still good, those with abundant energy can make an excellent traverse to the Konkordia Hut - follow the ridge east to the Dreieckhorn and descending by its North-East Ridge and East Flank (PD).
Stuart Johnston on Aletschhorn summit ridge
Photo © Ben Tibbetts