UKC

A Grand Day Out 1: Dinner In The Mountains

© Iain Bisset
photo
Celebratory dinner at 5400m, Aconcagua January 2008
© Iain Bisset

The weather forecast did not look good for the day after tomorrow. It reminded me of Nepal when two metres of high snow turned us back before the summit. ”You become wiser after being turned away from a mountain than from getting to the top,” a more experienced climber once told me. Since then I had become a bloody genius! We were given the choice of pushing for the summit from camp two in one long day or turning back tomorrow, the vote was unanimous on what should be done.

A shout of “Hot water,” went out sometime after 3am and I woke from the best sleep I had ever had at altitude. It took over an hour to slowly put my clothes on, eat a handful of dried fruit and fill up every possible container with hot water. We had to ascend from 5400m to 6962m and be back before nightfall. It was pitch black when we set off; at a pace that was painfully slow but not as painful as our bodies felt. No one spoke, even at the rest stops the banter from the last two weeks had ceased. Tired eyes made contact as we assessed each other and who might make the summit.

At the start of the morning we had the strength to think. I thought about my girlfriend back in Europe, probably still in bed recovering from New Year celebrations. By the time we had reached the fifth rest point we were down to three people and all I could think of when we set off was; 'left foot, breath in, right foot, breath out, and repeat.' Abruptly the sound ceased, the Canaleta appeared and our hearts stopped. Fifteen steps then a rest, ten steps, eight, and four. Karl and I started to crawl; we hadn't seen Alex for thirty minutes since his crampon fell off. We could see the summit now, ten metres away, but neither of us could move, I was positive it could be done in one push “She's all yours mate.”

I stood up; 'left foot, breath in, right foot, breath out, repeat.' I was walking, robotic and slow, but I was walking. Something empowered me. I was two metres away from the top. I wanted to turn back, staring at the final two metres I would rather turn around than find the strength to carry on. A concerted effort brought the last gasp of Herculean strength needed and a contender for the highest beached whale top-out ever performed saw me lying on the summit plateau. I started to cry before falling asleep.

I could have been the highest person in the world at that moment, but I didn't care I wanted to go down. I waited patiently for Karl and Alex to appear and radioed my Dad back at base camp. “I did it.” We descended. I didn't think it could possibly be worse but it was. I last drank water at six thousand and hadn't seen the bottle since. I couldn't remember where my walking pole was. We arrived back to applause from our friends, pasta and sparkling wine prepared in our plastic bowls and mugs.

It was the best meal I ever had.


The list of entries so far is below (closing date for entries is Midnight on Monday 9th March):

Click to read individual articles in this series:

LYON EQUIPMENT COMPETITION: A Grand Day Out

A Grand Day Out is another creative competition and a chance to express yourself and share your adventures.

FULL DETAILS HERE: LYON EQUIPMENT COMPETITION: A Grand Day Out

image © Mick Ryan  © photo: Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com
image © Mick Ryan



16 Feb, 2009
We publish them as they come in and we publish them all. The reason being is that we usually have a lot of entries and if we spread them out they have a better chance of being read. It is also easier to manage. With the DMM My First Lead Comp we had 130 entries all published ober 3 months. They will also all feature on one page as well as individually on the Competition page. http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/older.html?category=7 We also usually run some inhouse news items and newsletters about entries so far, as well as running banners that direct to them all. I won't bore you with readership figures unless you ask, but previous comps run like this are very well read. You can enter until Midnight on Monday 9th March.
25 Feb, 2009
Hi Mick, Is there a change of policy then? I can no longer find the link to any of the Grand Day Out articles already published. If so it's a pity. Part of the joy of these comps is reading all the contributions, not just the highly polished, professionally written ones that deservedly win. Everyone has to start somewhere and everyone needs encouragement. People shouldn't underestimate the courage it takes to hit that submit button, nor the buzz you get seeing your work out there for everyone to read. As to it being fair or not, I'm not sure how reading earlier entries is going to help somebody win. It's not a quiz and they're unlikely to copy the answers. Writing is a personal thing, requiring ideas as well as technique. As long as the judges don't take into account the, (sometimes partisan), critiques of the forum, I can't see the problem.
26 Feb, 2009
Found the links. Doh :-)
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