Verdon Gorge: the birthplace of modern sport climbing!

When I first came to the Verdon Gorge in 1979 it was an electric shock to the senses. That mythic photo of Ron Fawcett on the cover of mountain n°61 barely reflected the reality. Endless shields of iron hard stone, sculpted with beautiful holds. The soaring crack systems of La Demande, ULA, Luna Bong and Eperon Sublime. The crazy verticality and lonely freehanging abseils in cathedral silence. Then, the nagging doubts marooned on a terrace in the middle of the 400m cliff, having already pulled the abseil ropes.

No matter where I climbed after that, these images kept flooding back. The history of climbing in the Gorge is now over 40 years old and still evolving, but the near religious experience of a first visit here remains unchanged. The Verdon continues to exert a powerful impression on most visitors.

Brief History:

Climbing on the cliffs of the 25km long Verdon Gorge has undergone several evolutionary periods. Starting in 1968 the ascent over several days of Les Enrages on the Paroi du Duc paved the way for the exploration of the main lines of weakness on the 400m high Escalès cliff. Between 1968 and 76 many great classics were born, 'ground up' and in the pioneering spirit of the golden age. Routes like La Demande, ULA, Luna Bong, Eperon Sublime, Pilier des Ecureuils, Castapiagne rouge, Estamporanée, and Les Caquous.

From 1976 the increasing use of abseil access led to a better understanding of the more inaccessible parts of the Gorge and especially to the discovery that the slabs and walls were not blank but extremely well featured. With the 'ground up' ethic still firmly in the 'zeitgeist' but with the increasing use of bolts to supplement nuts, pegs, and skyhooks many masterpieces of route finding were traced up the blank walls. Classics such as Pichenibule, Dingomaniaque, Mangoustine Scatophage and Au Déla du Délire. The remarkable 'eye for a line' of the first ascensionists of these complex itineraries, was in fact based on astute observation of the cliff after rain. The characteristic 'gouttes d'eau', literally 'drops of water,' shaped pockets could be distinguished by observing shields of the blue grey rock darkened by rain falling from overhangs above.

The late 70s was also the era of several visits by Ron Fawcett and Pete Livesey, prophets of the free climbing revolution here who dispensed with the aid on many of the classics. This 'torch' was later picked up in 1984 by Jerry Moffat whose onsight of Pol Pot (7c+) and rapid ascent of the open project Papy on Sight (8a), stunned local climbers.

The redpoint ethic and use of the power drill in the 80s finally domesticated the wild grey walls, and many 'world classic' short climbs(1 – 4 pitches) were created by abseiling in above the stomach churning void. Routes like

L'Ange en Décomposition (6c,7a,6a), Surveiller et Punir (6b+,6c,7a+,6c+), Biscotte Margarine (6b+), Wide is Love (6a) and Debiloff (6c+) are still the epitome of the Verdon style – exposed, dominating, with bolts that seem never to be close enough, and with footholds that become invisible if one is too impatient to grab that next handhold!

The story of the Verdon continues to evolve, and the last few years have seen a renaissance of route development and interest. This started with several outlying single pitch sport areas being developed such as Courchon, Hulk sector, Chasteuil and now some short sport routes accessible by canoe from the Lac Ste Croix. These are generally in the more modern athletic style and are mainly the work of prolific local strongman Bruno Clément. Unfortunately no published topos exist to these superb cragging areas but Bruno is irrepressibly helpful with info if you call by his house in La Palud. Grades start at around 6a and go quickly up! For mortals however some of the finest recent creations in the Gorge have come from Lionel Catsoyannis and Pascal Faudou. Well bolted and modern in conception many have become classics. For the present these are outside the scope of this article but will likely be featured in the future.

The Climbing

Climbing in the Verdon Gorge is a unique experience not only for the quality of the stone but for the 'top down' manner by which many of the climbs are accessed.

Reminiscent of some tidal sea cliffs there is always a doubt as one pulls the ropes, descending to an isolated hanging belay in the middle of a 400m wall. You're usually committed to climbing back out to civilisation, so make sure you've located the correct abseil access for the chosen route and that the required minimum grade of the climbing is within your ability. For routes starting from the bottom a u-turn is often possible by abseiling back to the 'Sentier Martel' and walking back out via the tunnels (take a headtorch) to the 'Couloir Samson' parking. For other routes however, escape requires a good knowledge of the cliff and it's major lines. Many newcomers will initially stumble about getting lost in the quest to find the correct abseil descent. Ticking the classics, and walking the 'Sentier Martel' below the 3km Escales cliff, combined with careful use of the guidebook will help you find your bearings, though not rule out the occasional route finding epic.

Also if you're new to the Verdon, looking down at the smooth unbroken walls can instill a feeling of exposure that can range from exhilarating to paralysing. Acclimatising to this is a good idea on short easy pitches around the 3rd belvedere and quieter Mission sector or by approaching routes from the bottom, via the 'Sentier Martel' or other paths.

Of the many cliffs that line the north rim and south rim of the Verdon Gorge it is the 400m high Escales that embodies the essence of the Verdon style. It is also the most developed with over 1000 routes ranging from one pitch suspended sport routes to full-on multi day aid.

Driving the scenic 'Route des Crêtes' along the north rim and stopping at the many belvederes (viewpoints) will give you a breathtaking overview of this amazing cliff and help orientation on your first day.

Sectors and Recommended Routes:

Other unmissable cliffs:

Via Ferrata of the Duc: A great way to experience the atmosphere of the south rim of the gorge for those not climbing at the neccessary level for the Duc itself, or for an active rest day from climbing. In the shade till mid afternoon with magnificent views of the gorge and L'Escales.

Description: Cross the river at the fixed tyrolean just before entering the 1st tunnel then follow fixed ropes right and up through the forest. A short vertical step leads to more rightwards traversing underneath the start of Série Limité until steep metal ladders lead up and allow more traversing into the overhanging Hulk sector. Continue up and right following steep fixed ropes until an exposed step round a rib leads to a chained abseil anchor. Make 2 50m abseils back to the forest. Continue down through this to the river which is crossed by tyrolean (this is usually in place in summer but worth checking beforehand) into the Baume aux Pigeons. From here metal steps lead into the middle of the 1st tunnel(headtorch useful),and back to the Couloir Samson.

Topos:

Logistics

When do I go?(and strategies for avoiding the summer heat!)

At an altitude of around 1000m, the weather here is much more influenced by the Southern Alps than the rest of Provence.

• Autumn(mid Sept - mid Nov) is probably the best season overall with less heat and more wind from the north. This is very dry and creates excellent conditions for climbing. There are also less people around.
• Winter is silent, cold, dry, sunny and climbing days are short. This season is probably only for locals.
• Spring(march - may) can be good with long days and not too much heat, but then you do risk some spring rain.
• Summer is hot (above 30°) with the occasional thunderstorm. However many parts of the main cliff, L'Escalès face south east, get the sun very early then go into the shade in the afternoon. Although counter intuitive it's often counter productive to get on a climb at dawn as you'll still get cooked before you manage to finish. A better strategy is to have a lie in, stay in the shade, go down to the water (the Lac ste Croix, or better still the Verdon river underneath the Baume aux Pigeons (access from Couloir Samson via the tunnels- description in guidebook). Then to hit the Escalès around 3pm and climb literally till dark - you'll be in the shade in many sectors and it'll be really pleasant. Often there is also more wind in the gorge in the afternoon due to the build up of thermals. The heat is also very dry so there is quite a big temperature difference between sun and shade. If you're efficient you can actually get a lot of climbing done, not get fried to a crisp, and be starting climbing when everyone else has finished! If going on a long route take a headlamp with fresh batteries - it's actually quite fun to finish in the dark! All this said, be aware of afternoon storms as they obviously modify this approach. The weather forecast is usually visible outside the Perroquet Vert climbing shop, or on meteofrance (internet access at the bar 'Lou Cafetié'.

When you arrive take some time to observe at what time different sectors of the main cliff go into the shade and head up there when you see everyone else hanging out at the bar trying to rehydrate!

How to Get There

The village of La Palud sur Verdon is situated 5km from the main cliffs and is the focal point for all climbing on the north rim of the gorge. If driving from the UK it's a long haul, about 1100km from the Channel ports, but you will have the luxury of being able to take lots of gear. If you're on a short trip it's probably easier to fly to Marseille or Nice then rent a car for the 2 hour drive to La Palud.

Easy Jet and BA operate daily flights to both destinations from London.

There's no shortage of accommodation, La Palud has 2 main campsites, a youth hostel, hotels, and several gites. It is also possible to stay nearer to Moustiers and the Lake St Croix. This is 30 minutes drive from L'Escalès but has the attraction of an evening swim.

La Palud has a well stocked supermarket/petrol station, 2 bars, restaurants, post office with cash machine, and 2 gear shops. The well established 'Perroquet Vert' and it's new competitor 'Verdon Designs' at the start of the Route des Cretes.

For most routes double 60 metre ropes and 15 - 18 quickdraws will be sufficient. For routes such as Luna bong, ULA, La Demande, Enragés, and Estamporanée, a trad rack will also be needed. On the more committing face routes one or two skyhooks are worth carrying. Bolts can be quite spaced out and if in difficulty, a skyhook may be your only way of reaching the next one!

Abseiling and Ropework:

Ropework and in particular safe abseil practice is important here. When abseiling always leave knots in the ends of rope, and back yourself up with a prusik or shunt. Carry prusik cord or dyneema slings and know how to use them to reascend the rope if necessary. Basic self-rescue skills are also useful, such as knowing how to escape the belay and set up a Z pulley to help a struggling partner.

Other Activities

Walks, mountain biking or joining a group Canyon trip for the day is a great way to cool off in summer, as is just hanging out by the Lake St Croix near Moustiers.

Useful links:

• Weather forecast for the region at: meteofrance
• Procanyon run amazing summer whitewater Canyon trips with Lionel Catsoyannis (English spoken)
• For professional guiding, rock climbing instruction, and info contact Alan Carne (Certified Guide) at Alanduverdon.

Alan Carne or 'Carney' to anyone old enough to remember the Stoney Woodshed days is a Verdon lifer. Hitching there as a young stray in 1979 and tagging on to the British 'dream team' that included Ron Fawcett, Phil Burke, Al Evans,et al... he was hooked, and returned year on year. Having recently been awarded the French Brevet d'état guiding certification, he now practices there as a professional Guide and Instructor. Irrepressibly motivated, he climbs most days in the Verdon or abroad. Recent ascents include El Topo 8a, Les Braves Gens 8b, and in the USA last autumn an all free ascent of Moonlight Buttress 5.12d (trad) in Zion National Park, as well as 5.13 cracks in Indian Creek Utah.

If you need professional guiding or instruction in the Verdon Gorge - or just want to know where the best routes are you can contact Alan through his website.

• www.alanduverdon.com
• or email: alan@alanduverdon.com