VIDEO: Ben Heason on Order of the Phoenix E8

by Mick Ryan / Jack Geldard Oct/2009
This article has been read 10,140 times

Wimberry central section. Is there anywhere to compare with this for hard trad?, 171 kbWimberry central section. Order of the Phoenix is line no. 1 © Rockfax, 28 Sep 2009

At the end of September, Miles Gibson climbed a new gritstone E9 at Wimberry (UKC News). Whilst Miles concentrated on his new line, his climbing partner Ben Heason managed a rare repeat of the hard route Order of the Phoenix (E8 6c) at the same crag.

Speaking about the route Ben said:

"Kevin Thaw's route, Order of the Phoenix (E8 6c) seemed an obvious choice. It looked a nice line and was the cleanest of the harder routes up there.

Physically it's the most sustained hard grit route I've done so far with no particularly easy moves on it. The climbing is highly technical, often with tenuous footholds and a crux slap up the arÍte from a 1-finger pebble (by which time the gear/rope is redundant), culminating with taking a small pebble in each hand to make a super high step to a smeary top-out.

Kevin lead the route with a low side runner in Coffin Crack, in an attempt to avoid the nasty boulder-strewn landing should the worst happen.

My ascent went smoothly but it's probably quite stern for the grade.

Fortunately Miles did his new route Dangermouse later that day - a fantastic effort and not a bad day!"

VIDEO: Ben Heason on Order of the Phoenix


Ben Heason is sponsored by Wild Country Red Chili

  • You can read an article by Ben on his recent onsight ascent of the F7b+ limestone route Il Pesce (The Fish) on the Marmolada on the Wild Country Website
Forums ( Read more )

Staff Picks

May 2013

thumbDan Bailey reviews four bits of outdoor kit that stand the test of time - the Scarpa SL Activ walking boot, Mammut Base Jump... Read more

What's Hot Right Now

14 Feb 2017

thumbWe know that our forums have played Cupid over the years: furtive glances in the form of winky faces and flirty replies to the... Read more

Top Spot: Climbing Destination

Jan 2009

thumbThe Gorge at El Chorro is a huge limestone defile that slices through the mountain range just 50km inland from the city of... Read more