UKC

Chris Webb Parsons On The Wheel of Life V16 (Font 8c+) Video

© Chris Webb Parsons (www.webbyclimb.blogspot.com/)

Australian Chris Webb Parsons (22) has repeated The Wheel of Life V16 (Font 8c+) in the Grampians (Australia) first established by Japan's Dai Koyamada in May 2004. This the problem's second ascent. Parsons spent most of September at the Hollow Mountain Cave (see topo, here) first repeating Koyamada's Sleepy Rave V15 (Font 8c) then returning to complete The Wheel Of Life. These problems are long and overhanging, more like routes than boulder problems. The Wheel of Life has 68 moves.

At webbyclimb.blogspot.com Chris Webb Parsons says,

"I have climbed the Cave! After many years of dreaming about climbing this amazing piece of rock I have finally done it. It's so crazy; 68 moves long and every move is a classic. I went down to the Grampians for a short four and a half day trip with Mark and Tilly. We went up to the Cave on our first day. I warmed up a little, walked to the back of the Cave, sat down, looked to the skyline where the finishing holds are and went for it.

I had fallen 13 times right at the end moves on the Wheel, but this time I hit everything perfect and I was standing on top of the cave. I could not believe it, it was an amazing feeling and I'll never forget that feeling."

Is this a boulder problem? Is it a route? Or as 8a.nu have defined, is it a boulder-route?

Whatever it is, it is one amazing piece of climbing by Chris Webb Parsons.




23 Oct, 2007
Think that's the point. ;-)
23 Oct, 2007
Interesting stuff on 8a.nu about the grading problem. It seems to me that actually the French grading system can cope with this type of thing ok as it has route grades, Font grades and Font traverse grades. As Koyamada has said of his own creation "this is not bouldering". Equally, it is not a route and therefore the logical grade to give it would be 8c+ (font traverse grade) which is different to 8c+ as a straight bouldering grade. The only reason this system falls down is that the problem is in an area where V grades are used and therefore Koyamada gave Wheel Of Life V16 as it's harder than the V15 problems in the same area (these are also "boulder routes"). V16 has been translated to Font 8c+ but that aint right. The solution seems simple. Instead of the hybrid 8Cc+ type grade that 8a.nu are proposing utilise the fact that we have this unnecessary two system grade situation in bouldering already. Font grades for boulder problems, V grades for "boulder routes"? Then everyone would know where they were. Don't suppose the Americans (or the French) would go for it but it would work. Of course there would still be the problem of where to draw the line between problem & "boulder route" but that wouldn't really matter (and would make for lots of interesting discussions). At least we wouldn't have this ridiculous situation where a 68 move "problem" with numerous rests/chalking up points etc is given a bouldering grade.
23 Oct, 2007
Some climbers in the US give a YDS grade (5.11a....5.13b) for traverses. Only on a local scale though.
23 Oct, 2007
Don't think that works either though Mick as you need definition between route and "boulder route" grades. Traverses and link ups shouldn't get the same grade as routes as they don't have the same difficulties (rope & harness, clips, psychological factor, difficulty of working the moves etc). They are different but then they are also different to boulder problems so they need a different system imo.
23 Oct, 2007
Awesome effort! In reply to the grading bit, personally I think it should just get a route grade and that be the end of it.
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