UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (75) - New Year's Resolution Broken

© SLB
photo
Cadshaw Castle Rocks, Blackburn Area, Lancashire

Another New Years Resolution broken.

Next year I'll definitely get outside.

One evening luck shined. I was introduced to a climber called Mike who turned out, lived down the road from me, climbed outside and also had a string of climbing qualifications. This was somebody I could learn from.

A few days later Mike phoned, "I'm thinking of going to Cadshaw. Do you fancy it?"

Arrangements were made, the deal struck and I got a rush of adrenalin as I realised I was to finally get outdoors. The remainder of the week were spent pouring over gear and the reacquainting myself with the basics.

Finally the morning arrived and the rush of adrenalin from the week before turned to a rush of fear as I waited for his car to pull up out front. On the journey to Darwen I had many thoughts; What was the crag like? How high were the climbs and at what grade? The thought of biting off more than I could chew entered my head, but at least it was a warm sunny day .

It was after a short walk in that I had my first glimpse of the crag from across the field. Quite small and accessible and other climbers already on the face on top roping. My fears were allayed, it looked good and nothing too severe. Mike introduced me to the crag and showed me the basics; how to find the route from the guidebook and how to place basic protection.

We scrambled up a moderate climb to warm up then Mike found a good beginners route called Central Chimney at the grade of VDiff. He assured me that this route should prove no problem to lead and off we went. One thing I've found since climbing is when you check a route on the crag they invariably look straightforward from below or at a distance, but when you are actually on the climb, "Oh god."

The climb started easily enough with a couple of easy moves and the comfort of placing a nut for safety low down. Higher the route has a short chimney that you wedge yourself into, and with a pull here and a tug there I made progress, and desperately placed many nuts.

I got to the crux, that little place where comfort turns to terror. Isn't it funny that whilst you desperately hang and place a nut or hex (Mike had banned me from placing cams as anyone can do them, "learn the basics," he said), you become gripped with fear and how the fear increases when you climb past the crux relying on the last protection that you believe will hold your fall.

After nine metres of climbing, fear turned to elation as I toped out and set up a belay on a nearby tree.

Since this first climb, I have risen to the dizzy heights of Hard Severe but at 46 year old I am still banned from using cams. Maybe next year.

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE


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