UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (87) - Back Bowden Doors

© mark237
photo
A poor phone pic, but the relief is quality

After breaking my leg I retired from competitive football and martial arts. With my thoughts consolidated to more sedate pastimes, I took up a friends offer, who asked me to “Come and try the Sunderland climbing wall, it's a big one and a shame not to”

Almost exactly a year later and there I was, at the foot of Back Bowden Doors looking up, with cams, nuts, quickdraws and slings – all shiny and reflecting my midlife crisis right across Northumberland.

Earlier in the year I had purchased a little rack, and had placed gear on a moderate, but it never felt like a climb. That said, I felt it was good practice and at least I was getting used to placing gear anyway.

Looking up, I could feel the nerves weakening me and the realisation that fearlessness had left me years ago was rising through me. Dave Coulson sorted the rope with less anxiety. I was slowly convincing myself it was because he was 10 years younger and that I should just second him, “leave it to the young uns” I thought .

Dave looked at me and said “So are you having a crack then?” with a wry smile and that arrogant posture that I'm sure was a purposeful motivator, he had read me like a book. How could I say no? I tied in.

My hands perspired and my throat went dry, I questioned myself “Why do I want to do this?” With a quick drink and a chalk up, I made a start. There was a nice overlap of rock, with a large gap about half way up the face, I carefully placed a number 3 cam in it. I tugged at the quickdraw, and could feel how solid it was, the butterflies ebbed away as I made progress.

There were two easy moves before me and I pulled up smoothly, then a sharp feeling of shear panic took over as I looked down and realised how high above that placement I was. I controlled it with a safe stance and quickly jammed a nut behind a flake, clipped the rope in and again felt the rush ease away. I could see the crux in sight, a slightly overhanging hold on the right and the underneath undercut enough to create a poor foot position. I made another placement, just for luck? As I moved up and right I knew that this was the move, right at the top, that I had to get right. On a top rope I had no doubt that I could have grabbed and mantled it no problem.

I was there for ten minutes. I complained, shouted at myself and eventually Dave asked if I wanted to downclimb? But also stated he knew I could do that move. With that I went for it. It was over in seconds as I eased through the overhang and hitched a leg up that felt nice and strong. The next move is in the picture, yes the one with both fists clenched and raised in celebration.

The “why do this” was answered
The “being too old for strenuous sports” thoughts were over.
And the midlife crisis continues, but in a good way satisfied by climbing.
I got back and looked at Rockfax –I informed my wife “it appears I climbed “Quarryface” –that's an MS”
“As long as its not expensive – or evolves you wearing leathers, you enjoy it” she replied

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE



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