Jeff Mercier & Nick Bullock
Rive Gauche
Jack Geldard and Nick Brown - 5th August 2015
in association with
British Alpinist Nick Bullock, two-thirds of his way through his 2014/15 Alpine winter season, atop the Rive Gauche, Argentiere, France. Bullock, a vegetarian, eats a healthy, if somewhat price-restricted diet and keeps fit through climbing and regular circuit training. On this day the high food costs of the Chamonix valley have taken their toll and Bullock's fuel for the day is a large bag of 'Bon Prix' pain au chocolat, a little old, and bought at a knock down price. Not quite French 'haut cuisine'.
One of the old-guard of British Alpinism - more 'gnarly and bold' than 'fast and light' - Nick has climbed some of the Mont Blanc Range's most testing routes, but this season the crux of the climbing came in finding partners that weren't against spending a cold night or two away from their own beds.
Photo © Jack Geldard
Jeff Mercier belaying at the top of his own route 'Call of DT' - Rive Gauche, Argentiere. Mercier lives in the centre of Chamonix with his wife and children, and his job with the mountain rescue sees him flying in a helicopter over his beloved Mont Blanc Massif on an almost daily basis. His knowledge of the range is second to none, and Jeff keeps his eye on conditions of hard and rarely formed routes, ready to strike when the conditions and the weather are favourable.
Photo © Jack Geldard
In many ways Jeff Mercier and Nick Bullock share a lot of similarities. They are both passionate, opinionated and neither is afraid to speak their mind. They seek out adventure in the mountains and have the mental and physical abilities to create and repeat amazing climbs that make the headlines and fire people's imaginations.
Despite their obvious similar interests and personalities, when Bullock and Mercier first 'met', it wasn't all back slaps and beers. In fact, it was quite the opposite.
Following the climbing media closely, both Nick and Jeff had been peering at each others lives, like snooping through windows, checking out each others' routes, achievements and abilities.
However these internet windows aren't glazed with normal glass, and what you see through your computer screen can be more akin to viewing the world through a fairground mirror. Things can be distorted, either purposely or accidentally, and reality can be a little different, with more room to manoeuvre. Reality is after all multi-dimensional.
Their online relationship started with a bang when in the winter of 2008/09 Nick Bullock climbed a steep French icefall called Cascade de la Lyre in the Cirque du Fer a Cheval, around an hour from Chamonix. Bullock, as is his wont, followed up his ascent with a report on his blog called "WILD MATE!", crafting his achievements in to a sarcastic post, making fun of overly stickered sponsored climbers and their "spraying" on the internet.
The winter just gone saw Nick Bullock return to Chamonix after a four year hiatus from the Alps, as keen as ever for new routes and adventures.
It was early in the season when Bullock, excited with what he had seen picked up the phone to fellow Brit and Chamonix resident Jon Bracey.
"I've spotted a new crag on the right end of Rive Gauche! There's loads of lines to do!" exclaimed Bullock.
"Jeff Mercier has already climbed them all Nick! It's called The Blade Stadium." replied Jon.
"Bastard!"
Later that winter, both Jeff and Nick were looking for a mid-week climbing partner. The good skiing conditions had lured many alpinists away from the vertical, and partners were thin on the ground.
UKC, knowing the two climbers were at a loose end, suggested a day out all together, and keen to finally meet one another in the flesh, they both readily agreed.
"How about you show us The Blade Stadium Jeff?" suggested Nick, keen to see if Mercier's routes were indeed as hard as his own.
"Yes, we can go there." smiled Jeff. "I know a good route for you Nick!
The gauntlet had been thrown, and there was no way Nick Bullock wasn't going to pick it up. It was time for the final chapter in the history of the Rive Gauche, and it was time for these two driven climbers to forge a friendship by sharing a rope.