The Finest Routes in the Alps
Grand Combin (4314m) - North-West Face, 650m, D
All photos, drawings and text by Ben Tibbetts
in association with
Despite the size of the mountain and multitude of faces there are unfortunately very few worthwhile routes on the mountain. Where exposed the rock quality is mostly poor. Most of the glaciated north side, through which the original 'Corridor' ascent route approached, is threatened by seracs and rarely travelled. The North-West and South-West faces however provide an interesting traverse across the mountain with exceptional views and little objective danger under cold conditions. It is largely due to this quiet isolation, and the clean simple line, that the mountain has gained my particular affection.
The North-West Face route follows a broad 50 degrees snow/ice face that leads directly to the Combin de Valsorey summit. To avoid hard brittle ice it is often best to climb in spring and early summer when the face often holds good neve snow. Usually in spring the approach is on skis or in early summer can be made on foot. Though the route follows a simple and logical line, the approach from the nearest road is relatively long - 7km with 1200m height gain to the hut, then a further 600m gain to the base of the route.
Grand Combin at sunset from the Cabane de Chanrion.
Some nocturnal creature scratched around in the attic for a while. As the other rooms were locked I couldn't find what it was, nor temper its enthusiasm. I went downstairs and hung our food from a hook on the ceiling lest it decimate our rations. The clouds cleared during the night and revealed the stars. We set off well before dawn, but contrary to the forecast clouds started to push in again from the south at first light. As we hit the Col du Meitin the clouds began to envelop us, coming and going in great swathes. We barely had enough visibility for a while to find which field of ice we should start up and it didn't resemble what I remember climbing about ten years earlier.
Nearing the bergschrund the snow became soft and Stefan took the lead plunging enormous strides that I could barely use. We climbed up the face steadily, unroped, but next to each other. I was trying to get some photos of the route and had lent Stefan a bright red jacket that barely covered his long arms. We climbed mostly on easy névé and then just a few patches of brittle grey ice nearer the top. The clouds broke open again and provided views all the way down to the valley floor. In good weather the ridge-line route to the main summit provides a massive vista to the south over northern Italy. I had hope to get some photos here as the previous time I had taken none. Nevertheless wrapped back in clouds it wasn't a great place to be so without much discussion we decided to abandon the summit. Both of us had plenty enough experience wandering around on glaciers in fog.
Bivouac Musso, Plateau du Couloir and South West face
Stefan Sporli on Grand Combin North-West Face
Conditions
In ideal conditions you would find both the NW and SW faces covered with consolidated névé. This is most likely from March to June. Outside this period in midwinter the cold snow rarely sticks to the steeper ice of the face. During summer the descent via the SW face becomes raked by rockfall. The approach to the Cabane de Valsorey (3030m) is best either early spring when the whole approach can be skied, or around June when skis will no longer be necessary at all. Finding the correct descent route in fog is not easy and the summit plateau is broad and featureless. Doing the route with good visibility is recommended.
Approach
From Bourg St Pierre either park in the village, or find a suitable layby on the dead-end road leading to Plan du Pey. Head along the dirt track which leads along the north side of Valsorey valley and at Cordonne leave this to continue on a small path on the left. At Chalet d'Amont, if walking, take vague path leading up the hillside above a band of cliffs, or another path that heads into the cliffs and climbs a gulley by sections of ladders. Follow the path on to the Cabane. If on skis and the terrain is well covered with snow the best passage is often up the Valsorey gorge directly to Les Grands Plans. From here follow the slopes to the south of the Cabane and then traverse west to the hut's rocky perch.
Stefan Sporli on the shoulder of the Meitin Ridge