The Finest Routes in the Alps
Aiguille Verte - Grands Montets Ridge, 1000m, D, IV+
All photos, drawings and text by Ben Tibbetts
in association with
Gabriel Mazur and Laurent Soyris on the Aiguille Carrée, Grands Montets Ridge, Aiguille Verte
Gabriel Mazur on the traverse of the Tour Ségogne, Grands Montets Ridge, Aiguille Verte
ALPINE ATTACK 35:35
The Alpine Attack ticks every box for the modern alpinist. It's light, tough, clean and stacked with useful features that make life easier when climbing in harsh mountain conditions. Whether you're planning on tackling a big route in Patagonia or planning week ice climbing in the Scottish Highlands next winter the Alpine Attack is the right choice for the multi-discipline climber.
ALPINE ATTACK ND 35:45
The Alpine Attack ND has been designed specifically for female alpinists. Definitely not just a different colour, the ND series has a shorter back-length, and a different harness and hipbelt to the standard model. If you are a female alpinist with a big ticklist for the next 12 months choose the Alpine Attack ND as your regular climbing partner.
PEAK ATTACK 32
With a classic single-compartment design, the Peak Attack remains true to the traditional ethos of mountain packs, yet offers a unique and award winning feature set. With new double HeadLocker axe attachments, unique Tip-Grippers for attaching poles, and ski slots designed to carry even the widest power skis, the Peak Attack provides everything need for time spent in the mountains.
Approach
Take the Grands Montets cable car. Ascend the Glacier des Grands Montets to west shoulder of the Petite Aiguille Verte.
Route
From the shoulder of Petite Aiguille Verte begin a traverse line south-east on rough broad ledges on the Nant Blanc side. Avoid the temptation to climb up ramps to the ridge-line and continue past a very obvious gully where one descends and re climbs 20m. Continue at the same level all the way to a second gully where one is obliged to gain height before crossing the gully about 20m from the ridge-line. This gully is capped with a large jammed block. After this follow a vague rising line until a broad broken gully and chimney system leads directly to the notch before Pointe Farrar.
Gabriel Mazur and Laurent Soyris approaching the Couvercle hut
Moine descent
The route is far from obvious and much of the terrain is on loose rock. It is never particularly steep or difficult and so is nevertheless acceptable in descent. Follow the main ridge, or not far on the Talèfere side, until a notch at 3800m. From here descend c.100m, rappels useful. Take a Traverse line rightwards to find cairn above a chimney. Make 3 x 30m rappels down steeper loose ground to a ledge before the fall line plunges down a steep gulley. Follow cairns and make a descending traverse rightward under the 'cardinal' for c. 400m on easy terrain following broken ledges and short chimneys. Finally take several zig zag traverses down towards the rimaye where 2x 50m rappels will probably be necessary. Follow the right bank of the glacier down to the Refuge Couvercle. Pick up the path below the hut and follow it to a steep set of ladders. Head west (often cairns or painted trail) towards the junction of the Leschaux and Mer de Glace. Follow the Mer de Glace to Montenvers.
Gabriel Mazur and Laurent Soyris on the summit ridge of the Aiguille Verte
Aiguille Verte at sunset from Bel Lachat