Chris Craggs's very best of the best

Editor's note: you've read his crag recommendations in Climber, maybe bought his guidebooks at his site at - so now see which routes he really loves.

After 30 plus years of climbing I still prefer grit to most anything. The following ten are not in any order of merit, as all great routes are created equal - Chris Craggs

  • Wall of Horrors (E3 6a), Almscliff, West Yorkshire
    The hardest route of its day and still a major buzz. Technical then bold.

  • Sentinel Crack (E2/3 5c), Chatsworth Edge Derbyshire
    The mark of the man - Whillans at his best. A route that takes no prisoners.

  • The Rasp (E2 5b), Higgar Tor South Yorkshire
    Gristone brutality at its very best.

  • Great Slab (E3 5b), Froggatt Edge Derbyshire
    Solid E3. No runners when it was first done onsight in plimmies by Joe Brown in the 50s - and no runners today! Don't fall off - ed.

  • The Link (HVS 5b) Stanage (Plantation) Derbyshire
    A route that improves on the already superb Congo Corner (also HVS 5b) - and what's more it's mine!

  • The Sloth (HVS 5b in the guidebook, E1 5a by me), The Roaches (Upper Tier) Staffordshire
    The biggest roof on grit (well, almost) tackled on the biggest holds on grit.

  • Promontory Traverse (E2 5b 5b in the guidebook), Black Rocks Derbyshire
    Grit's best sideways outing, squirmingly weird but great fun - and, let's be honest, HVS, never E2.

  • Suicide Wall (HVS 5a/b, 5a/b), Cratcliffe Tor Derbyshire
    Grit's finest wall, tackled centrally: includes superb rock, moves and middle belay stance.

  • Valkyrie (HVS 5a, 4c/5a), Froggatt Edge Derbyshire
    Another Joe Brown - a varied, spiral ascent of grit's finest pinnacle.

  • Goliath's Groove (HVS 5a, 5a), Stanage (Plantation) Derbyshire
    The best line on the cliff! The stance is optional.

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