Top Tens - Northumberland VS

Here's Brian Everett's personal list of favourite VS climbs in Northumberland, apparently a bit selective as he hasn't explored all the crags, (you're fired - Ed.) but then the whole point of Top Tens is to be a bit selective. (you're re-hired - Ed.)There's a tendency towards bold, slabby, delicate climbs rather than jug-hauls, Brian reckons.

  • Delicatessen (VS 4c), Simonside.
    A real tester of nerves and boots if you climb at this grade. Makes you seek out the tiny bumps that will get you across the traverse.
  • Tigers Wall (VS 5a), Back Bowden Doors
    A Magnificent delicate start is followed by a couple of bold moves and some intricate laybacking.
  • Slab and Groove (VS 5a ), Kyloe
    A really delicate start with along reach and a "will I/won't I" move to get established at the top.
  • Giant's Stair (VS 4c), Simonside
    A bold start with 2/3 4c moves with no gear and a horrible landing sharpen the mind on this one.
  • Scorpion (VS 4c), Back Bowden Doors
    A simple start lets you move delicately into the trap called the scoop where you ponder your fate with energy running out.
  • Wilfred Pickles (VS 5a ), Kyloe
    A fantastic climb for playing the game "do I fiddle about and get some gear in, or do I move up. Sustained and always enticing you to move up.
  • Trinity (VS 4c), Kyloe
    The laybacks gradually get harder, with the meanest at the top. Plenty of gear here though.
  • Twin Cracks (VS 5a), Peel Crag
    A bit of a two-move climb, but what a pair of moves. Step up from your gear to an awkward layback/sidepull to an even more interesting mantelshelf where Mr 0 Friend comes to your aid.
  • Banana Wall (MVS 4c), Back Bowden Doors
    A good stiff pull lets you delicately traverse to a smooth runnel and lets you show off your footwork.
  • The Scoop (VS 4b), Back Bowden Doors
    A straightforward start has you searching for holds you know must be there somewhere, dammit.

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