Good morning all...
I got 700 x 28 tyres to put on my road bike for touring.
However, there is not much clearance on the front forks and I would be concerned about going long distance in case I got a buckle etc.
What would be the best thing to do, get new forks or keep a 23/25 on the front?
Can't really help with the decision without seeing the bike, but just to add another option: Depending on whether the clearance problems are on the sides or top, a wheel with narrower or wider rim, respectively, may also help gain a few mm.
What do you mean by not much?
I tried that with my road bike and ended up keeping a 25 on the front, 28 at the rear. It works well.
The frame actually has clearance but the Campy brakes severely limit it to a couple of mm at the rear and none at the front. Changing to Shimano would cure that but Shimano on a Campy bike? I think not
Shimano road gear is the spawn of Satan*! Whoever thought of shifting with the entire, wobbly brake lever and thought, hey, that lookslike a great idea?
Give me Campa for the road or Sram for off road any day!
*at least since the development of integrated brake and shifting levers. The old, 1980s 105 group was indestrcutible and the "arabesque" Dura Ace levers from that time actually rather stylish!
'Tis true. More than once riding Shimano I've inadvertently braked whilst trying to change gear, very disconcerting
Sounds like you chaps need some Di2 in your life ;)
> Sounds like you chaps need some Di2 in your life ;)
Or some contemporary Dura-ace and adjust the reach properly - one finger changing and braking, no problem.
Mind you, I've got one bike with 23mm and one with 25mm tyres. The 23s drop out fine - but the 25s - it is a bit of a battle getting the tyre past the pads. I don't think 28 would work at all.
I've decided to go with a 25 at the front for now and then look at getting some new carbon forks later.
This seems to be a common solution.
Before you buy forks, as above - check the brakes - I think this would be the limit rather than the fork itself!
> Before you buy forks, as above - check the brakes - I think this would be the limit rather than the fork itself!
Brakes are fine, no issues there...
I went for 25s to replace 23s on my road bike 6 years ago. They seemed oddly fat then. Now I do most of my riding on a gravelbike with 38 mm tires, and have a mountain bike with a 3 inch front tire, they look amusingly narrow! I bought Schwalbe Durano Plus and have been very happy with them. Don't think I've punctured since getting them. I bought them on the basis I had used Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires for years previous to that on my hybrid and later CX commuters and never punctured.
You can buy 25 mm Marathon Plus https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-marathon-plus-road-tyre-smart-guard/rp-prod24544 which would probably be good for touring - riding smooth gravel I don't imagine would bother them in the slightest. But the 25 mm Duranos are on sale at CRC currently too. https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-durano-plus-twinskin-folding-tyre/rp-prod193405
Fair enough - I believe you, was just finding it difficult to visualise!
I had a similar dilemma, and in the end decided to squeeze 30mm tires in and keep a spoke key on me.
I'm pretty happy with it, as I put comfort first for long days out. However I am aware I could end up having a very bad day at some point!
> I had a similar dilemma, and in the end decided to squeeze 30mm tires in and keep a spoke key on me.
I'm rubbish at adjusting spokes, always make it worse.
> - but the 25s - it is a bit of a battle getting the tyre past the pads. I don't think 28 would work at all.
Just undo a pad if the cable QR doesn't give you enough room?
> Just undo a pad if the cable QR doesn't give you enough room?
Sure - but at the side of the road that's a PITA, and there is a Law that says that 'Small screws removed at the roadside will be dropped and lost'. Some call it Murphy's Law. There is of course, O'Reilly's Observation on Murphy's Law which is, "Murphy was an optimist."
> Mind you, I've got one bike with 23mm and one with 25mm tyres. The 23s drop out fine - but the 25s - it is a bit of a battle getting the tyre past the pads. I don't think 28 would work at all.
Normally the tyre is flat when removing so not too much of an issue getting past the pads
> Normally the tyre is flat when removing so not too much of an issue getting past the pads
Indeed - but I'm told that it's good practice to fix a puncture and make it fat again. I suppose one could inflate it once it's fitted, but I spy scope for f****wittery, badly aligned CO2 inflators, partially-inflated wonky tyres and frozen fingers. Probably the way to do it though. Or those new-fangled disc brakes (which is bike industry code for 'a new bike')
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