/ pimp my MTB
Sell the Trek and buy a new bike. The cost for upgrading your bike will be much more than it ´s worth.
I ´m in the same position as you (i have a 2013 Merida) and it will be cheaper to buy a new bike wich have all the upgrades from the beginning than upgrade my old bike.
I will probably buy some bike from Canyon wich i feel is value for money.
Buy a new bike, budget 1200 to 1500.
That'll get you a lot of great bike (hardtail).
This thread is back from the dead!
what am I getting for 1200 quid? What would I notice was different?
Replace the chainset and BB for something with outboard bearings and a hollow crank like shimano hollowtech II. The improvement is significant.
You need to change the cables, grease the shifters and service the derailleurs, assuming you've done that and the shifting is still rubbish check they're not bent or worn and replace if required. If the front one is shifting badly check the chain rings aren't bent and the teeth are good.
New forks are expensive so the question is is the rest of the bike worth it? if you then better forks are, well, better!
Something like this:
Though I wouldn't go for plus tyres
> What would I notice was different?
More smiles per mile
> General rule is to replace things which are worn or causing obvious problems, (think that's really called maintenance, not pimping!), but avoid upgrades of things which work. You are usually better off putting that money aside for a better bike next time around.
I'd agree with this. In the case of the OPs XCM forks, I have these on an old 2011 Cube Analog. They're not great, but are good enough for what the OP is doing. As there's no oil damping it's a very easy job to remove the stanchions, clean and regrease,(and scotchbrite off the rust...), and put back together to get them working as good as new.
Certainly better to put the money ito a higher spec new or second hand bike.
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:
Just out Sondor review here:
Do the chains really stay on with those 1x11 bikes?
In the old days, running a single ring on the road was a bit hit and miss.
When ever I did it, I used a small chain guide which was rather like a very stripped-away front mech....
Ah! A quick google suggests there is a modern equivalent...
> Do the chains really stay on with those 1x11 bikes?
Yes, the narrow-wide ring combined with clutched-rear derailleur do an incredible job at keeping the chain on.
That being said, on my full suss I run a passive MRP guide and bash guard (other brands available). My chain might come of once or twice a year, and that's once or twice too many.
The bash guard gets well used.
Ah, right. That technology had passed me by. Sounds like a good solution to the problem...
Edit: The narrow/wide chainring, I'm less convinced by.
> Edit: The narrow/wide chainring, I'm less convinced by.
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