UKC

I have an old-ish "Revolution Cuillin Disc" MTB purchased circa 2009-ish.

(Later version than this but almost identical specs: https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/mountain-bikes/revolution-cuillin-d...)

Been a decent workhorse but obviously showing age related problems at this point. Needs a bit of TLC. Am weighing up the pros and cons of basically stripping back to the frame, replacing fork, drivetrain and maybe even adding a dropper seatpost vs buying a new bike.

I'm riding trails more often than I used to but still only a mildy competent and semi active MTBer. What's the collective opinion of upgrade vs just buying something new?

In reply to NorthernGrit:

i would get something new bike have come on a long way since 2009 and you might also struggle to get parts.

cheers loz

In reply to NorthernGrit:

what's your budget for the project (refurb versus new).

Where will you be riding and what type of trails?

In reply to NorthernGrit:

Modern geometry makes newer bikes feel very different, and much more secure on rough stuff. Complete drive trains are expensive, new forks can be expensive, etc etc. I suspect by the time you buy all the bits (not always simple for older models) you'll be a long way to the price of budget but still brand new and much better designed bike. 

In reply to TobyA:

^This^  Plus a modern bike will have 650B or 29" wheels which do seem to make a difference.  CRC have some Vitus bikes in their sale such as: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/vitus-nucleus-27-vr-mountain-bike-black...

In reply to NorthernGrit:

I partially disagree with what others have said: while 'expensive' mtbs have changed greatly in the last 14 years (27.5"/29" wheels, more relaxed geometry, wider tyres, 1x gearsets, dropper posts etc), those changes are less noticeable the less you spend.

You need to define 'TLC'. If your current bike just needs a new chain & cassette, new cables, new brake pads, and new tyres, then it's probably worth doing that as it will set you back half the price of a new bike.

On the other hand, if in addition to the above, they forks are seized, the drivetrain completely rusted, the BB wonky, and the wheels dinged up etc. Then you're probably best buying something new.

In reply to NorthernGrit:  I'd go new - that Vitus looks super value to me.  I've got a similar 26" wheeled Al frame bike in the garage and whenever I ride it now it feels like a lot more wobbly experience than a 29" with more modern geometry

The linked Vitus is 27.5, but the points the same

In reply to NorthernGrit:

I've done something similar, stripped right back to frame, checked for cracks and resprayed, then built back up. New remote lock forks, wheels, tyres, brakes, drive train (everything from bb to the chain)... probably spent £6-700. You need a good frame or be very attached to the bike to justify it. 

In reply to Alun:

That's why I asked about the budget for the project.

And the OP did day: replacing fork, drivetrain and maybe even adding a dropper seatpost

So some significant possible outlay.  Especially with a dropper that is worth having.

And the OP should also have look around the 2nd hand market.

In reply to NorthernGrit:

Thanks for replies all. Thought I'd replied yesterday but must have forgotten to hit post.

Riding was always more tracks and bridleway type stuff with the occasional trail centre. Kids are now in love with local trail centre so I can see this type of riding factoring in more over the next couple of years.

I've been around long enough to know budget will be what it is and more than I set out to spend but I guess the order of figures I had in my head were £350 on renovation vs say £6-700 for a new bike. Main problem is justifying the purchase of new. Eldest needs a new bike and I also need a new commuter so new MTB for me is down the pecking order....

Also not sure why I mentioned a dropper post. Definitely in the would be nice but no real desire for one category. Priorities would be strip, inspect, BB, cranks, chainset, fork, bleed/service brakes, new tyres. A few small bits like bar grips etc.

In reply to NorthernGrit:

Used bike prices are dropping quite quickly at the moment and it seems to be a buyer's market. Pretty sure you could get a relatively modern hardtail with an ok fork, x1 drivetrain and dropper for around £500. I would definitely recommend this rather than investing money into the bike you linked. 

In reply to NorthernGrit:

Don't know your specific commute needs, but can you re-purpose this bike with slicks (you said it needs new tyres anyway) and tweak the gearing for that, bearing in mind that a commuter will get trashed anyway, and then buy a new MTB?

In reply to NorthernGrit:

Time to treat yourself to a new one.  It's just simply not worth the money and time and try and fix a 13(?) year old bike.  I actually think you would loose money vs replacing for a new bike if you tried (sad way the world works now ..)

Great entry level MTB - £499 - https://www.wiggle.co.uk/vitus-nucleus-29-vrs-mountain-bike

In reply to NorthernGrit:

Just had a look and plenty of Merida Big Trail 600 around on Facebook Marketplace in the £600-750 range. Has decent geometry, Ali frame, bomber z2 fork, ,29" tubeless ready wheels, dropper post, 10-51 Shimano deore x1 12 speed drivetrain, Shimano brakes. Seems to get well reviewed and would do you well for all riding for years to come. 

Other brands to looks out for could be Orange and Whyte. 

In reply to NorthernGrit:

I still have and regularly use a 1988 Dawes Wildcat. Anybody else still using a " vintage" MTB?

In reply to The Watch of Barrisdale:

... they are now called gravel bikes ...

In reply to NorthernGrit:

Overall, if you want MTB as a main 'thing to do', then buy a current gen bike (either new or 2nd hand) ; it will be more fun to ride.

In reply to ChrisJD:

Not much gravel where I take mine!

In reply to The Watch of Barrisdale:

... it was a tongue in cheek pop at gravel bikes ....

In reply to sxrxg:

Where is everyone looking for these amazing second hand bargains? Gumtree is 99% carreras that people think they can get £20 less than the new price for when it's been sat in the garden rusting for 3 years. Don't use FB.

LastBoyScout - Thanks but other than decision paralysis commuter bike is in hand. I'm mostly a roadie so no way could I entertain a frame as heavy as the MTB for a tarmac commute! I'm also happy navigating the waters of road/gravel/cross frames, groupsets etc. Just not so much in the MTB world.

In reply to ChrisJD:

Thanks for enlightening me anyway. 

In reply to NorthernGrit:

The new fork is probably the priciest item here. But what is actually wrong with it? If it just needs new seals or an oil change then you could do that yourself (not much more advanced than bleeding your brakes). 

Then the main outlay is new chainrings, cassette, chain, BB, and tyres (do you really need new cranks?). A bit wasteful and unsustainable to buy an entirely new bike just to avoid a couple of hours' maintenance. Frankly you're also not going to appreciate state-of-the-art geometry enough on bridleways for it to be worth the extra money - it's not like mountain biking only just became fun in the last few years.

In reply to NorthernGrit:

Facebook seems to be the best and if you are serious about picking up a second hand bike it is probably worth signing up (even if you delete the account afterwards). Plenty of posts from non mountain bikers who bought bikes in the pandemic and now want rid. I would prefer to use rather than Gumtree as usually they have a profile and have been on Facebook for years so gives a bit more comfort about who you are buying from (can always ask for receipts or email proof of purchase if you are worried about stolen bikes...). 

In forums and bike classifieds people know the value of things so generally more expensive. eBay seems to be scoured by everyone so generally prices aren't that cheap. Gumtree tends to be cheap bikes (or potentially stolen stuff). 

In reply to Myr:

That's £200+ already.

I'd buy new and slow time revamp the old bike as and when I could pick up cheap spares.

N+1.

In reply to NorthernGrit:

PinkBike is the place I go to look

In reply to ExiledScot:

So if an equivalent new bike is £600+, a couple of hours in the garage saves you at least £400.

In reply to ExiledScot:

Can also get a lot of good second hand parts like cranks & disk brakes.

In reply to Myr:

Not really, if you pulled a £600 bike apart and priced the components individually at rrp prices you'd probably reach £1000. 

I don't think you could get the parts you suggested for much under £400 unless your buying bottom budget or used bits. 

In reply to NorthernGrit:

What Toby said.

You could also have a surf around eBay,  various FB groups and MYB forums to see if you can find something secondhand but more modern.

In reply to The Watch of Barrisdale:

I've  got a '96 vintage Kona Lava Dome which, over ten years ago, I stripped back to bare frame, had resprayed in '93 colours and decals (my original Lava Dome which was stolen from work but had grest memories of trips to Peruvian Andes and Picos), and rebuilt with XT and Hope kit. Still pleased with the result and still gets admiring comments from local bike shops.

In reply to The Watch of Barrisdale:

Occasionally - Trek Singletrack 970 from around 1992 as my "tootling around tame stuff with the kids" retro bike.

Also have my wife's Dawes Edge ~1990 in almost mint original condition.

In reply to ChrisJD:

I'm trying not to bite. <grrrr>

Anyway, you think that just because you're a bit odd and have gravel bike with flat bar. Clearly deviant behaviour!

In reply to ExiledScot:

My GT Avalanche 3.0 is at least ten years old. Looking back over the parts I’ve most recently bought for it (or my wife’s similar age mtb) I paid less than £100 in total for a cassette, chain, chainset and two tyres. All reasonable quality SRAM or Shimano parts - the tyres were Schwalbe Blackjacks. It took a little bit of shopping around to find compatible parts at a good price. Some parts were from that auction site (but new stock). The front mech has needed to be replaced on both our bikes, and that was the hardest part to find a compatible replacement for.

I don’t subscribe to the idea that a newer bike would give me more fun, but I have to admit that my bike does feel very heavy if I have to get it over a deer fence. 

In reply to The Watch of Barrisdale:

Yep, Marin Pine Mountain from about 1990. The bike was more capable than me when I bought it and that hasn't changed. 

In reply to The Watch of Barrisdale:

!991 Marin Pine Mountain.

In reply to PaulW:

I have a 1991 Marin Pine Mountain.Think they either had bright green or dayglo orange front forks.Mines has the orange ones. It was nicked from my garage last year but my wife spotted a guy on it a few miles away due to the forks and phoned me. Caught him and retrieved it.

In reply to Thugitty Jugitty:

Yawns .. I've lost count with the number of people I've known to say that and then for them to have to eat their words when they get to use a modern one.  They don't mind though, cos of the huge grin they have. 

In reply to TobyA:

I refuse to own anything with drop bars ... 

And when we getting out in WinHill woods?

In reply to ChrisJD:

Good point - sometime soon. I do really have to sort out my tires though, still losing pressure and sealant coming through the sidewalls. Annoying. They've only done about 300 kms so I don't want to really replace them yet, but also don't want to ding my rims and damage them riding them too soft.