/ 2 natural boulders in Shoreditch

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pmot on 13 Aug 2008
Quiddity - on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

Fantastic news! Just need a few more before Hackney becomes the new UK bouldering mecca?
TRNovice on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

I was happy enough playing softball in Shoreditch park with a large group of colleagues. Less certain I'll be heading there on my todd with a pair of 5.10s.
MattOwen on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

Great news indeed!

I live a 5 minute walk from Shoreditch park.

Will check it out.
deacondeacon - on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot: Can't wait to try these out, will head up there this weekend.

Cornish granite you say, may need to bring some gloves with me or they'll be covered in blood.
TRNovice on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

Is there a Rockfax guide yet?
Tim Chappell on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to TRNovice:


Ooh, and my wife's just asked me what I'd like for my 20th wedding anniversary present. Now I have my answer...
TRNovice on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to Tim Chappell:

There is plenty of room in our communal garden if they have any boulders going spare.
punter - on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

Great idea!
chiz - on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot: another reason to be gutted I don't work in Eagle Wharf Road anymore (was 1 minute from the park).
chiz
dsh - on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

These will shortly become the most polished boulders in the country.
i.munro on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to uberdan:

I hate to be pessimistic but are we having a sweep on how long before they get too graffiti'd to be climbable?
punter - on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to i.munro:

Blimey you're a cheerful chap, aren't you?


deacondeacon - on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to i.munro: You seemed really keen on the idea of having some boulders in London a few weeks ago. Why are you being so negative now?
Chris Craggs - on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

Wouldn't have made more sense (economical and for the climbing) to have one of the resin 'boulders' that are springing up in some cities?


Chris
deacondeacon - on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to Chris Craggs: It would be better for climbing, but its an art installation (not just for climbers).
Wilbur - on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

Oh Wow! Is there a bolt on top for top-roping?

Pls tell me there is or i'll have to restrict myself to Harrisons again for the year..
Tom Last - on 13 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

Sweet!

Right I'm off...
thin bob on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to Chris Craggs:

real rock is nice, though.

and burns less ;-)
catt on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to uberdan:
> (In reply to pmot)
>
> These will shortly become the most polished boulders in the country.


Nothing a bit of pof wont sort.....



JOKING
catt on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
> (In reply to pmot)
>
> Fantastic news! Just need a few more before Hackney becomes the new UK bouldering mecca?

Personally I feel that Clissold Park is heavily in need of some 'art installations'...
tommyzero - on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot: I was taught by John Frankland quite a few years ago. He's a good bloke and an interesting artist. I don't think these are his best works. But hey.

Beauty is in the eye of the crimper!
tommyzero - on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to tommyzero: Taught art that is!
Quiddity - on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to catt:

For the record my vote would be gritstone...
Tom Last - on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to catt:

Might not go down well at the Castle though!
i.munro on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to deacondeacon:

> You seemed really keen on the idea of having some boulders in London a few weeks ago. Why are you being so negative now?

I wasn't trying to be. It was an attempt (to some extent ) at humour.
Chris F - on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to i.munro: It amused me, but also a bit colse to the truth. Maybe they will get gritblasted on a regular basis to remove polish and spraypaint.
i.munro on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to Chris F:

I would imagine, as it's a community art installation that part of it is seeing what "the community" does with it.

If that turns out to be spray painting &/or smearing all the holds with dog poo then I guess that's part of the installation.

More seriously does anyone know if Shoreditch is one of those parks that still gets locked before dusk?
newhey - on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to i.munro:

They lock parks at night?!? You all get excited abount a small piece of rock???
London is such a sad place to live.
i.munro on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to newhey:
> (In reply to i.munro)
>
> They lock parks at night?!?
Generally. I always thought it was very strange thinking.
Just means any Scrotes who fancy a bit of vandalism are sure they won't be disturbed. Is this not a UK wide thing?


You all get excited abount a small piece of rock???
Oh yes!

> London is such a sad place to live.
No argument here.


TRNovice on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to thin bob:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> real rock is nice, though.
>
> and burns less ;-)

Have you climbed on Cornish or Devonian granite?
TRNovice on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to i.munro:
> (In reply to uberdan)
>
> I hate to be pessimistic but are we having a sweep on how long before they get too graffiti'd to be climbable?

Like the roadside boulder at The Cromlechs you mean?
David Barlow - on 14 Aug 2008
I still think they should have moved Almscliff instead of 2 random lumps of granite
TRNovice on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to David Barlow:

Prefer granite to that hard sandstone nonsense anyday - now if they could have managed some Bishop Quartz Monzonite and Volcanic Tuff as well ;-).
Jus - on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

Just taken a walk to see the one on Mabley Green where I met two of artists involved. There's a mixture of natural holds and holds where they have drilled to manouvre the boulder. On the main face (which overhangs gently) there are 2 obvious problems both using large (drilled I think) pockets) which look rather dynamic!

There's a good looking slab problem which teeters on the edge of the prow, and the prow itself which is doable from a sitter which looks about V10, plus a few other good-looking easier problems.

Looking forward to the competions on the weekend, hopefully it's not going to piss down as per the forecast!
Chris Craggs - on 14 Aug 2008
TRNovice on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I was talking to thin bob :-p
Chris Craggs - on 14 Aug 2008
In reply to TRNovice:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> I was talking to thin bob :-p

I actually realised that when I re-read the thread, sorry for the curt reply. I thought I'd leave the links to the shots anyway.


Chris
catt on 15 Aug 2008
In reply to TRNovice:
> (In reply to thin bob)
> [...]
>
> Have you climbed on Cornish or Devonian granite?

I don't know about the Cornish stuff but the Devon stuff certainly doesn't burn.

It lacerates!

caver - on 15 Aug 2008
In reply to Jus:

Just heard, the comp has been delayed. One of the boulders isn't ready for climbing and the forcast is for rain rain rain.
i.munro on 15 Aug 2008
In reply to Jus:

Don't suppose you know when it's going to be available from on Sat
& any idea when/if the park shuts.
catt on 15 Aug 2008
In reply to i.munro:

It's irrelevant if the park shuts, you just jump over the fence.
i.munro on 15 Aug 2008
In reply to catt:

Fair point.

I'm afraid I'm of the generation that tends not to think of things like that as we assume that rules will be enforced.
Jus - on 15 Aug 2008
In reply to i.munro:

As far as I know if there is a fence it's only a very little one (although I think there is no fence!)
Jus - on 15 Aug 2008
In reply to caver:

Yep, they are not going to be ready as far as I've heard
i.munro on 15 Aug 2008
In reply to Jus:

Just found this on UKB

"The bouldering competitions scheduled for Saturday 16th AND Sunday 17th August in East London have BOTH BEEN POSTPONED due to forecasts of bad weather.

The competitions will be rescheduled, so please keep an eye on www.peeruk.org for the new dates."

Believe, or not, at your own peril.

slintank - on 15 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

had a look at the new boulder at shoreditch park. it's pretty good, tough on your fingers. my friend put up 3 problems on it, think he has got the first ascent since there was no chalk on the boulder! bit hard to explain where they are but i'll try.

inner city pressure v2
up the right hand arete on the north face of the boulder

shoreditch tw*t v3
the southeast corner topping out on the east face with a sit start.

the highgate shake v5
straight up the slab on the west face. no arete, no drill holes.

it's fun!
caver - on 15 Aug 2008
In reply to slintank:

I'm afraid your friend missed the first ascents by seven days.
Jus - on 16 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

The Shoreditch one was bathed in full sunshine today and there were a few people climbing on the mostly sharp holds. There are some good problems and eliminates! Felt wierd but fantastic to be climbing on Cornish granite in an inner city park. There are few projects still to go I think, and one large section of the overhanging wall is unfortunately completely blank and won't go in a million years!

The Mabley Green one might only be ready in a week. Not sure when the comps are.

tobyfk - on 16 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

Hmmm ... a mere 14 years too late for me.
tommyzero - on 16 Aug 2008
In reply to newhey:

> London is such a sad place to live.

Not so my friend. Plenty of gay people here.
Leabank Square on 17 Aug 2008
Just thought I'd put up a few pics of the Cornish Granite bolder in Mabley Green around the corner.

This morning it was still surrounded by barrier fences. The parkie said that the cement base hasn't 100% set yet.

But - it should be openly accessable from tomorrow onwards.

http://leabanksquare.blogspot.com/2008/08/mabley-green-boulder-by-john-frankland.html

Happy Camping!!
Blue Roses on 17 Aug 2008
In reply to slintank: wow, brilliant, it looks quite tall. Is it too tall to just climb on your own without a mat? Just thinking of turning up there after work (climbing in my suit, haha)

Can someone please add these to the crags or indoor walls database? That would be brilliant, thanks!

Minka on 17 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

How cool!! Right round the corner from my old place, will take my climbing shoes with me next time I'm over.

zorro - on 18 Aug 2008
In reply to Leabank Square:
Concrete won't reach 100% set for about 25 years?
Tall Clare - on 18 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

wait a minute - these are 'contemporary art', so shouldn't the great and good of UKC be slagging them off to high heaven, rather than being interested?
pmot on 18 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

Dont forget Frankland already did one at Compton Verney (Warks), problems set by Mr Dawes no less...

http://ukclimbing.com/databases/crags/craginfo.html?id=1244
Tall Clare - on 18 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot:

the only rock in warwickshire, wasn't it?
Alasdair Fulton - on 18 Aug 2008
In reply to i.munro: You can still climb on graffiti, luckily, or there would be about 20 less problems to do at Dumby.
i.munro on 18 Aug 2008
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

From my (extremely) limited experience of Dumby some I'd guess that paint improves the friction.
Actually I'm suprised the paint sticks. I certainly couldn't.
tommyzero - on 18 Aug 2008
In reply to pmot: I've just come back from an event in Shoreditch park. Some non climbers were trying desperately hard to climb one of the aretes. The only graffiti appearing is on the base of the supporting structure (none on the rock that I could see)

Despite the rain it felt good. Looks super hard in places. Almost as hard as watching your back in Hackney!

How long before they get polished?
i.munro on 20 Aug 2008
In reply to tommyzero:

I suspect it won't be too much of a problem. Ok there'll be lots of non-climbers in dirty shoes but the soil in a London park is presumably 80% soft clay + 20% dog s^&*t, both of which are much softer than granite so not very effective grinding paste.

Wht's this park like then? Could you leave a rucksack on the ground without it dissapearing? I thought Hoxton was full of artists & minor celebs these days?
IanMulvany - on 23 Aug 2008
I'm blogging at http://www.shoreditchbouldering.blogspot.com/ and shoreditchbouldering.com. If anyone wants to email me with whatever routes you do here or at the Mabley boulder I'll write them up.

You can mail me at ian@shoreditchbouldering.com

- Ian


nagore - on 31 Aug 2008
In reply to IanMulvany:

Hi,
we went yesterday evening (August 30th) to try the Shoreditch Park boulder. It's still a building site and what started as a quiet sneaking-in by two climbers ended up being an "en mass" trespassing with around 15 kids and some locals joining us and two other climbers that came shortly after.

We climbed first the SouthWest face and then the right hand arette of the north side that Ian has posted on his blogg. http://www.shoreditchbouldering.blogspot.com/

I will try to describe the route using your pic and some annotations I have just added to it. (hope you don't mind me using your photo...)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nagore/2812921389/

Starting with Right Foot 1 and Right Hand 1, reach Left Hand 1. I had to do this in two moves but the stronger guys can do it in one. We used the left foot on the face (Left Foot 1) just for smear, then match both hands on the borehole (Right Hand 2). After bringing the right foot up on the arette (Right Foot 2), we moved the body over the arette towards the west side to reach a very good hold for the right hand side. Once you reach that hold (Right Hand 3) it's easy to finish.

It's strange to see that in your pictures it looks more finished than it is actually now. They have dug a big hole on the East side. I hope it is not a water feature what they plan to install there. It would be good if they thought of placing some mats or really soft ground for us to climb instead.




IanMulvany - on 26 Sep 2008
In reply to pmot:

As far as I know the hole has to do with some landscaping that they are doing in order to completely hide the base. The goal will then be to leave just grass below the boulder.

- Ian
Strife - on 26 Sep 2008
They should have moved London to the rock, not the rock to London.
i.munro on 26 Sep 2008
In reply to Strife:

Even better & probably cheaper, they should have left both London & the rock where they were & given the money to the climbers (by which I mean me) so they could move
SFM - on 29 Sep 2008
In reply to pmot:

Met up with some mates and went to both on Saturday. Hands are in tatters still today.

Brilliant bouldering. Some long term projects to work on! I prefer the Mabley Green one.

One thing to watch out for is broken glass from folk smashing bottles against them. Pays to have a quick look and clear up before starting climbing. Obviously bare feet is a bad idea.
SFM - on 29 Sep 2008
In reply to Wilbur:

Looks like there are bolts on top that you can attatch hangers to....
TRNovice on 29 Sep 2008
In reply to pmot:

See also: -

Shoreditch Park Boulder: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9490

Mabley Green Boulder: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9499

Any info on problems most welcome.
SFM - on 29 Sep 2008
In reply to TRNovice:

The lower boreholes on the Shoreditch one have now been cemented up.
TRNovice on 29 Sep 2008
In reply to SFM:

I wonder if they removed the stake that someone had put through one from the top first!

Is it invisible mending or a bit of an eyesore?
Tony the Blade on 29 Sep 2008
In reply to pmot:

Might have to check the Shoreditch bouler out on mthe way to the Castle tonight.
SFM - on 29 Sep 2008
In reply to TRNovice:

hmmmm it's quite obvious but has apparently stopped the neds from holding court atop it.
TRNovice on 29 Sep 2008
In reply to SFM:

And throwing conkers (and God knows what else) off of it as well I hope.

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