UKC

6 months of bouldering

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Steve_westy 04 Sep 2017
So

It looks like I may have 6 months off next year (assuming my ex wife doesn't decide she wants to come back) and fancy doing a 6 month bouldering trip.

I know this gets asked (and answered) often but for me, I've never really taken any notice of much outside of the peaks or my local gym, so have no real idea where to start.

I was thinking of just spending 6 months in Font following a trip in may but would love to get around a little more so was looking further afield such as Canada or America but the cost would be fairly high. The other alternative is 6 months touring the UK which does appeal however as I'm getting older a last ditch attempt abroad would be cool.

So if you had 6 months free, where would people go?
 sxrxg 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

Tour Europe so many rock types and amazing locations for bouldering, just a few venues to get you started...

Sintra, Finisterre, Santa Gadea, La Pedriza, Albarracin, Targasonne, Ailefroide, Fontainebleau, Pfalz, Val di Mello, Cresciano, Magic Wood, Silvapark, Zillertal, Prilep.
 seankenny 04 Sep 2017
In reply to sxrxg:

> Tour Europe so many rock types and amazing locations for bouldering, just a few venues to get you started...

> Sintra, Finisterre, Santa Gadea, La Pedriza, Albarracin, Targasonne, Ailefroide, Fontainebleau, Pfalz, Val di Mello, Cresciano, Magic Wood, Silvapark, Zillertal, Prilep.

Nearly all of these venues can be done in a long weekend from the UK.

The same cannot be said of the US, Australia, South Africa, etc.
In reply to Steve_westy:

I've bouldered all over, but if I had a straight 6 months free, it would be in Font. I'd keep an eye on a weather app and scoot over to other venues like Magic Wood if needs be but Font would be the centre of all things.
I'm heading out there at the end of next week , and can never get enough of the place.
 Tyler 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

What time of year exactly? If I had 6 mints I'd use it to get to places that are too far to travel on a normal holiday but where that would be depends on the season
 andyfallsoff 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

+1 for going somewhere further afield. Chances to take long periods off travelling don't come round that often (to me, at least) and now I can't see any in the foreseeable I really wish I'd made the most of spaces when I had them.

Far afield options if you want to boulder might include rocklands (SA is very cheap for what you get as well); or maybe Hampi in India?

Personally I'd try to go somewhere and do more than just bouldering, but that all comes down to what you enjoy most. Colombia is also amazing (and there is great climbing there) but I don't know if it has as much bouldering.
 yodadave 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

Go to Rocklands!

Font will always be there for future short trips, rocklands takes a while to get to and is so big it's worthy of a prolonged stay.

Alternatively a US roadtrip:
bishop, J Tree, Yosemite, hueco, red rocks, Joes, RMNP, Little Rock City, HP40, Rumbling Bald, Boone, Rocktown

 Davib 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

I agree that with 6 months you might want to go further afield. I spent 5 months in Cape Town at the start of this year. You're 3 hours away from Rocklands (which is obviously amazing) but not many realise the quality and variety of bouldering around Cape Town itself. There are at least 6 crags within 30 mins drive of the CBD (outside of rush hour - which is awful) not to mention sport climbing crags and the trad on table mountain itself.

The climbing community there is friendly and pretty close, so once you meet one or two boulderer's you'll be introduced to the rest. It's a very cheap cost of living for Europeans, plus you don't need to learn another language. Just remember that their winter is upside down, so whether this is worth it depends on when your 6 months will be.
 Lemony 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

A couple of months could give you an amazing bouldering trip from Utah to Vancouver- all the SLC stuff, Bishop, Yosemite, Tahoe, Carver Woods... all the way up to Squamish.
 C Witter 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

You can't boulder every day, so maybe think about what else you'd like to do around the bouldering. I'd also think about the practicalities, including weather. I think travelling further afield would be good, if it's manageable, because it'd be memorable; whilst the UK would be a cop-out in my book, given you've got 6 months. But, on the other hand, you don't have to go to just one place, and it may be good to be able to see friends and family if you've just divorced (when I personally would probably feel a bit bruised). When I spent 3 months away in the US, it was a bit of a strange mental process to be so far away from people back home. On the other hand, Americans are pretty gregarious, so you're bound to meet some nice people who you can talk to Do you speak French? Might be a bit alienating to be in France for 6 months if you don't speak French; on the other hand, it's long enough to get a good grasp if you're willing to put yourself out. Anywhere away from the humdrum will be enjoyable, I imagine - the hardest bit will probably be working it out and deciding.
 Adrien 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

If I were in your position I'd probably go to the US (well, for three months due to immigration requirements) because, as somebody mentioned, you can't boulder everyday so you might as well go someplace nice where you can, say, hike on off days. I live in Font and trust me, there's not much worth traveling for within a 4-hour drive (unless castles and polished limestone are your thing that is).

Do a month in Bishop in October/November when the summer heat is over, then head to Joshua Tree for another month when it gets colder, with a month-long detour in between via Death Valley and Utah (Zion, Bryce Canyon...) for the scenery and some bouldering in Red Rocks. Or Bishop/Joshua Tree/Hueco. Then fly back to Europe and spend January to March in Font before the Easter crowds start flocking in.
 ClimberEd 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

Go climbing, with a bit of bouldering thrown in.

The world is your oyster. Why limit it to 8 (or whatever) moves.
6
OP Steve_westy 25 Sep 2017
Hey guys

Thanks for all the responses loads to think about and certainly to look into.

Due to timings america and Canada may not be so doable so I'm looking in to Hampi in India (jan) and / or Thailand (feb) then the Grampians in Oz (mar - Apr) and Castle hill in NZ (may - Jun) so any advice on those locations would be appreciated.

I'll also definitely be looking at throwing in my harness and QD's for Oz as I'd love to do sport and trad if poss (although travelling with a full rack may be a bit much as I want to do some sight seeing / touristy stuff)

 seankenny 25 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:
> Due to timings america and Canada may not be so doable so I'm looking in to Hampi in India (jan) and / or Thailand (feb) then the Grampians in Oz (mar - Apr) and Castle hill in NZ (may - Jun) so any advice on those locations would be appreciated.

I think late winter and early spring in the US would be prime time for many of their destinations.

Word of warning: whilst many people love Thailand, I've never found anywhere as overhyped as Tonsai/Railly.

If you are going to be in Hampi in January, then have you considered follow it up with a trekking trip to the Himalayas, either in India or Nepal? It might be a bit cold but I went up to Annapurna base camp at Christmas/New Year and it was great. March would be prime season I think, so might work with your timings, and it's certainly not the kind of thing one can do in a fortnight's holiday. There is some bouldering around Manali and up towards Shivling base camp (both India).
Post edited at 13:44
 Callum Smith 25 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_west

You will not be disappointed by Castle Hill (go to Flock Hill) or the Grampians, the latter being second only to Font. NZ is obviously an amazing place to visit and would be very high on my list if I had the money and time. You could also do a lot worse than a tour of Scotland, the Lakes and N Wales.
OP Steve_westy 25 Sep 2017
In reply to seankenny:

I did think about the states it seems that there is varying advice about when to visit and really it would be best to go April / May time.

I'm thinking Thailand may be just a break / holiday as I wouldn't mind popping through Vietnam to have a look at stuff.

I would desperately love to go into Nepal and do EBC of the Annapurna circuit but as I have a dodgy (read broken but mending) femur from an accident 2 years ago and long hiking is still a little too strenuous for me annoyingly. (because climbing is so easy on my leg!!!!)
OP Steve_westy 25 Sep 2017
In reply to Callum Smith:

Cheers fella that's awesome to read, I did think about a UK tour but as I'm going to be taking a sabbatical I'd love to get as far away as possible as I may not be bale to do it again.
 seankenny 25 Sep 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

> I did think about the states it seems that there is varying advice about when to visit and really it would be best to go April / May time.

Jan - Hueco (granted, official faff)
Feb - Josh/Bishop/Arizona
March - prime Bishop


So certainly not impossible, but totally get that it might not fit into your broader schedule. Hampi would be amazing and climbing in the northern hemisphere in Jan can be a bit of a potluck.

> I'm thinking Thailand may be just a break / holiday

It is a pretty nice country. But unless you definitely want climbing, Sri Lanka is much nicer.

> I would desperately love to go into Nepal and do EBC of the Annapurna circuit but as I have a dodgy (read broken but mending) femur from an accident 2 years ago and long hiking is still a little too strenuous for me annoyingly. (because climbing is so easy on my leg!!!!)

Such a shame!

 Flinticus 04 Oct 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

No advice, but what a problem! (bounlder pun?)
 Ben_Climber 04 Oct 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

Agree with the idea of going long haul if you have that extended period of time to travel.
Europe is amazing but like others have said can be done over week/long weekends.

Whatever you end up doing I hope you have a blast!
In reply to Steve_westy:

First of all let me express my jealousy!!!!

It wouldn't cost anymore to live day to day in the US over Font so its just the added cost of getting there, a few hundred quid plane ticket,

personally I'd spend a few months in either US or Rocklands then a few in Europe between Font and Magic Wood, you can go to the UK anytime, and if cost is the issue then just Europe, I live in the Peak District and have so much to do but I can go there at anytime, yet my projects in Font are 500 miles away
In reply to Steve_westy:

also if your on your own over there we will be in Font in either April or June and Magic wood in July so your more than welcome join us for a couple weeks
OP Steve_westy 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Steve Halfpenny:

Cheers Steve don't be jealous it hasn't happened yet, in fact work have said no to 6 months which is a right pain but they have said I can have the odd month here and there so I may get a few trips in. (Or I might just quit and do a runner which is the preferred choice!)

Cheers for the invite, is always good to climb with folks rather than on your own.



 Callum Meadows 21 Nov 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

Bowderstone lad
 barney800 21 Nov 2017
In reply to Steve_westy:

> Grampians in Oz (mar - Apr) and Castle hill in NZ (may - Jun) so any advice on those locations would be appreciated.

I'd consider swapping the timing of these two around for optimal weather conditions. The Gramps is usually good in March but can still be a bit warm, whereas Castle Hill could be cold and damp by then.

Some kind of van would be my preferred option for a month or two in the Gramps as there are decent free campsites with basic facilities and plenty of others with showers, kitchens etc. Camping would be doable but it'll be cold and damp overnight, although there are plenty of accommodation options in Horsham and Halls Gap if you want a break.

There is a good scene out here (I live in Melbourne) and you'd likely be able to find partners for roped climbing. Try posting on http://www.chockstone.org/. I mostly boulder these days and will hopefully be getting out a lot next winter so feel free to get in touch closer to the time.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...