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A2 Pully injury Help!

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 ReubenClimbs 16 Jun 2018

HI, so I recently pulled my A2 flexor tendon in my middle finger and can't climb.

Does anyone have any tips for things to help with recovery and then into training back my finger strength?

Also how do you cope with not being able to climb what should I do?

Thanks!

 zv 16 Jun 2018
In reply to ReubenClimbs:

Hey mate, 

Sorry to hear you got injured! How bad is it? Do you have a full range of motion? Swollen?

Depending on the severity - what I'd do - take 1 week off, and then SLOWLY restart from a very low base. Have a week of V1-toV2. A whole week of that only. I know it's very hard to be disciplined and not to pull on any small holds but that's crucial.
If that feels okay, then have a week of V2 with the occasional V3 to test the waters. Repeat until your chosen standard. If there's pain which is more than 3/10, you're overdoing it. 

Unless the tear is severe, complete rest is not necessary as long as you are super disciplined. 

Check these videos out from Mani the Monkey.

youtube.com/watch?v=y_fAaf_J7oQ&   - treatment

youtube.com/watch?v=QMR8dGbN_OU&  - on prevention, probably more important.

I would also invest into Dave Macleod's injuries book, probably my best climbing book investment so far!

Good luck, pulley injuries tend to heal remarkably well given what we put our fingers through when climbing!

 stp 17 Jun 2018
In reply to ReubenClimbs:

There's also a podcast and video on TrainingBeta with a climber-physio on finger injuries...

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/esther-fingers/?portfolioCats=72

OP ReubenClimbs 29 Jun 2018
In reply to zmv:

Thank you this was rely helpful! Especially with the links to vids and book!! 

Really appreciate it ????


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