UKC

I have Franco Cookson’s NY Moors Guide and was wondering where might be worth a visit as a bouldering venue.

The only venue I’ve been to in the guide is Scugdale - which was nice as more of an easy mini-solo/highball venue.

Can anyone recommend any off the venues in the guide?

Many thanks.

Not been but I've heard good things about  Wainstones.

Most of the best bouldering is not described in Franco’s guidebook other than Clemmits ( banned) Thorgill, Wainstones, Cold Moor, Duck stones, Oak crag,Inbetweeners, Bridestones and a bit at Kay’s nest and not all of it is described.

Crags in the guide with bouldering. Kay’s nest, Round crag, Ingleby incline, Tranmire, Wainstones, High crag, Thorgill, Stormy Hall, Camp Hill, Smugglers terrace, Boulby, Stoupe Brow and Clemitts which is currently banned. It might be hard to find the boulders at some venues without the bouldering guide.

Wainstones is probably the most complete description wise, however it’s a bit of walk. 

About 20 minutes mainly on a level flagstoned path. Suppose that is a long way for beany wearers 😁

Thanks everyone.  Wainstones has been added to the list.  It looks well worth a trip.  Cheers.

I would get a copy of the book by Betaguides then you’re all set. Tons of stuff up there

Well even Franco says it 30 minutes however he tends to wear a hair band or helmet. Do they make it an easier walk.

Wondered whether it might have been a bit more than 20 minutes, it's a long time since I've been there so I blame faulty memory due to age, or maybe I was much quicker in my youth (there's not really any doubt about the maybe, and I just depressingly realised that I'm now thinking that youth includes my mid 30s).

Of course it's all dependent on how many bouldering mats you're carrying 😁.

It also feels a very long walk back when you fall off something and miss your mat, even using your brush on a pole as a makeshift crutch.