/ Best bouldering crags in Northumberland

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Jon Stewart - on 09 May 2019

I'm heading over to the County this weekend for a spot of easy-mid grade bouldering. I've been to Shaftoe, which is pretty good; and had a short session at Rothley at the main area described in Boulder Britain, and that's all I've done.

In the current conditions - with a few showers forecast for Saturday - which crags do folk think will be in good nick? I'm thinking sunnier and sheltered. And which have the nicest climbing? By nice, I mean proper problems (not sit starts or stuff that doesn't top out) with good landings and clean rock. Grades in the 5s and 6s; a bit of spice is great, but I'm not really looking for abject terror.

Cheers,

Jon

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Lemony - on 09 May 2019
In reply to Jon Stewart:

First up, be aware that it’s the Northumberland climbing festival this weekend.

https://facebook.com/events/greencarts-farm-bb/2019-bmc-northumberland-festival/2170009869879759/

Best low-mid grade bouldering crags are probably Back Bowden, Kyloe In and Hepburn. All have mega classics at 5-6. Kyloe has lots that don’t top out but I defy anyone to say that they’re not proper problems! Hepburn landings are a mixed bag but there’s some really fun problems.

I’d head to Back Bowden, lots of good climbing with top out on the blocks, really good landings, loads more that doesn’t top out but is also great.

if it’s showering, remember how fragile all our sandstone is when it’s even slightly damp.

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Jon Stewart - on 09 May 2019
In reply to Lemony:

Cheers - really useful info. The forecast's pretty good, but I won't be pulling on any damp holds should it rain.

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Jon Stewart - on 14 May 2019
In reply to Lemony:

Had a great time. A day at Rothley, then on  Saturday it was a bit showery and went to Edlingham but couldn't find the crag. Drove up to Hepburn which had missed the showers completely and had a cracking afternoon. Really beautiful spot, beautiful rock, quality problems. 

On Sunday I had a look at Bowden Doors, did a few solos and classic problems on the boulders at the far end, and checked out some stuff at Ravens Crag. Can't wait to explore more.

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Sherlock - on 14 May 2019
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Hi Jon

If it's any consolation we couldn't find Edlingham either!

Raven's is well underrated and worth exploring and next time you really should visit Callerhues. A fantastic venue.

Cheers.

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Second for Ravens.

Better rock than LH hand end of Bowden which is heading for the fate of Bridestones.

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Mark Savage - on 15 May 2019
In reply to Jon Stewart:

The trees have grown quite a bit at Edlingham since the guide came out, so it all looks very different these days! You can't see the rocks at all from the road. I was up there on Sunday and I put a long fallen branch between two trees to mark the (vague) path up to the Log Jam / White Wall area. I don't know how long it will stay there, but you never know. Just quest straight up through the trees from the parking area at the red metal gate.

Well done on going over to Raven's. It's weird how there's such a good little crag right there in front of Bowden and no-one ever goes. The same applies to Callerhues. You won't believe you have such an amazing crag all to yourself. I must have been there 30 or 40 times and only seen another party once.

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petegunn on 17 May 2019
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Hi Jon

Have you checked out the  Sunnybrow boulders yet? Not the biggest or best boulders around but a lovely quiet spot with a good easy circuit. All boulders top out as well.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=327893

Also  Crag Hill which is nearby with a 1 min walk-in

https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=219707

Post edited at 16:42
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JDal - on 17 May 2019
In reply to Mark Savage:

Had a v quick shufti at Edlingham today, crikey - so overgrown it's hard to imagine it's not replanting. Mind, when it was initially developed  we could barely find the same bloc twice in a row in the VERY dense sitka-land that covered the hill. Then they clear felled and promised paths between the blocs. Hey ho.

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Jon Stewart - on 17 May 2019
In reply to petegunn:

> Have you checked out the  Sunnybrow boulders yet? Not the biggest or best boulders around but a lovely quiet spot with a good easy circuit. All boulders top out as well.

> Also  Crag Hill which is nearby with a 1 min walk-in

No - brilliant, thanks for the reminder! Looks like a good day out, and pretty nearby too.

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Jon Stewart - on 18 May 2019

The Meadow Wall area at Ravens was right up my street.

Callerhues is OK as a day trip for me from Kendal, so it's on the list of places to go - looking forward to exploring it.

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Mark Savage - on 18 May 2019
In reply to Jon Stewart:

If you're over for a weekend, add Queens to your list. It's got some good problems at your grade, some mega-lines to inspire you and it's near the A69.

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