/ Bouldering around Newquay, Cornwall

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
cruxyh - on 08 May 2019

I'm planning a long weekend trip to Newquay, Cornwall and hoping to get some climbing in. A trawl through the forums tell me Godrevy and  Clodgy Point are worth a visit.

Any others that are worth a visit within similar distance (ie. 40-50 mins by car)?

If there are any must do boulders/climbs that offer around the 7A-7C grade I'm also interested to hear about those too. Thanks in advance.

Report
Neil Amos - on 08 May 2019

carn brea definitely worth a visit. 

Carn Brea

Report
Ged Desforges - on 08 May 2019

Tintagel North fits your bill perfectly. A bunch of really good problems 7a to 7c in a beautiful setting. Best in the evening sun with a calm sea 

Report
Tom Last - on 08 May 2019
In reply to cruxyh:

Little Fistral in NQ itself is great. Problems are fairly obvious. 

Report
oakapple - on 09 May 2019
In reply to cruxyh:

Hi Yep second vote for Tintagel for those grades. Grodrevy late after just check your visit lands with low tide after 2pm this will make sure access is good and the problems get time to dry in the sun, always nice to boulder with sand landings. Same with little Fistral not sure exactly the best tide window.

From Newquay I would also recommend Helman tor it is a more compact area than Carn Brea which unless you have been before can be difficult to find the problems and are a little spaced out. Both venues will eat your skin if you are not used to granite, and even then Helman has some of the sharpest crystals out there, but is one of my favourite venues.

Report
cruxyh - on 09 May 2019
In reply to cruxyh:

Thanks for the replies.

Do any of you know if there are any free topos around?

I've searched around and found some stuff on here:

http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/index.shtml 

But nothing much else. Any further help very appreciated.

Post edited at 13:42
Report
Niall Grimes - on 09 May 2019
In reply to cruxyh:

Boulder Britain

Report
RobertHepburn - on 09 May 2019
In reply to cruxyh:

Godrevy is excellent wave washed slate, but suffers from the beach crag problem of changing sand/pebble levels that mean climbs change grade or appear/disappear occasionally when there is a big storm.

Helman Tor is worth a visit, but my favorite when I visited Cornwall last year was Trewortha Tor:

Trewortha Tor#overview

A 15 minute walk in and no proper topo guidebook, but i found some fascinating problems of every style, on mostly solid granite.

Love it there and sure you will have a good time.

Report
two_tapirs - on 09 May 2019
In reply to cruxyh:

Godrevy is superb, a really good mix of problems and types of problems as well.

As mentioned, Little Fistral has some great climbing, but beware that some of the rock can be a little fragile in places; I've ended up on my backside when a crimp gave way on more than one occasion.

If you've got a car, also consider a visit to Roche Rocks:  Roche Rock

Report
cruxyh - on 09 May 2019
In reply to Niall Grimes:

Ha! You would say that.

Any favourites around those parts?

Report
Stevie.Toft - on 13 May 2019
In reply to cruxyh:

You can find some topo's for the south on the link below. All free.

http://www.rustypeg.co.uk/store/

You don't really need a guide for Tintagel, watch a few videos and use the descriptions in the ukc logbook. You will get a good gauge of what is what.

Post edited at 18:04
Report
Mark Kemball - on 13 May 2019
In reply to cruxyh:

http://www.royalcornwallshow.org/ If you're there these dates, forget about driving north through Wadebridge unless you want to spend hours in traffic.

Report

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.