/ Broomgrove

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AlexMorris on 20 Jan 2019

Broomgrove Road Wall

Been spending a fair amount of time Broomgroving over the past few weeks (exam period keeping me close to uni or home :/ ) Was just wondering if anyone knew what's "in" for the low traverse, is it the lowest set of holds(there's some pretty well chalked and ridiculously low holds) or is it just eliminating the high jugs.

Cheers for the help

Post edited at 11:53
Aly - on 20 Jan 2019
In reply to AlexMorris:

Pretty much whatever you want, it's all eliminate climbing on a brick wall!

More helpfully, I always found the easy way to do the traverse (if going from Left to Right) was go high right at the start using a series of holds quite close to the roof, then come back down to a section on sidepulls before getting to a good rest on a couple of holds up high again in the middle.  Then you carry on low for a bit before going up high again when you hit the nasty crimp right at the end to finish via the big block.  Basically, all of the high sections are eliminated on the low version, which creates quite a bit of 'new' climbing.  It's not particularly eliminate, just avoid anything roughly above eye level.  The crux is definitely reaching the right arete off the little crimp and a series of three slopey crimps.

AlexMorris on 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Aly:

Good point haha, reaching pretty high levels of contrived in our contrived sport :P

Currently living my life for the small joys of a ukc tick (Stress does weird things to people)

Thanks for the help, I'll get back to shuffling 

mark20 - on 20 Jan 2019
In reply to AlexMorris:

I've always done what Aly describes for the 'low traverse'. Though I have always found the low sequence at the end (bumping along the 3 sloping crimps to gain the arete) much easier than the higher sequence, so I stay low here even on the normal traverse.


Teappleby - on 20 Jan 2019
In reply to AlexMorris:

Agreeing with the others. Personally for people of our height Alex I've always found that staying low towards the end is the easiest sequence by a long way and the high sequence is really hard (huge move). So obviously makes the difficulty gap between the normal and low much smaller for short people.

Mick Ward - on 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Teappleby:

Would also agree. As I recall (long time ago) if you're short, the low finish is more controllable. With the high finish, I always had to throw for a dire crimp. With practice, you could hold it every time, yet, next time, it would still feel as unlikely as ever. If this makes sense!

Great place. Brick edge cruising at its best.


Somerset swede basher - on 27 Jan 2019
In reply to AlexMorris:

Broomgrove is ace! Once you've done low there and back again try eliminating the vertical slots, makes for an even pumpier workout. I did the low as described by Aly and also found it about the same grade going low at the end. I think you'd need to be super lanky to find the high version easier at the end.

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