UKC

Does anyone know if there are any topos for the Agglestone, or any recorded climbs other than the the 1 problem on ukc?

In reply to thefuturesmiles: my recollection is that pretty much every possible boulder problem has probably been done - but the old Swanage guide said something along the lines of "numerous problems on the overhanging face or a very easy one round the other side", without giving details.

b

In reply to thefuturesmiles:

There was a topo on-line a while back, but it seems to have been deleted. It's pretty fragile (esp after rain), so locals aren't keen on producing a topo as it will get hammered.

Plenty of problems and eliminates all the way around it. Here's a few of the obvious lines... treat my grades with a huge pinch of salt.

North Face:
The obvious seam up the overhanging wall using the high pocket on the right is V2. Getting to this pocket on layaways from the right is about the same V2/3.

West Face:
The easiest line going leftwards up the overhanging prow is V1 on jugs, but the topout feels high. From the same starting jugs, straight up past the shelf is V3 - sit start makes it V4 - scarily high with a tough finish.
Starting low on the right side of the "blank" face and going straight up on spaced holds is V2/3. From the same start, going up and left to finish at a slot is V3-V8 depending on the combination of holds.

South Face:
Start at the back of the roof lying down and climbing out to the low topout is about V2.

East Face:
Lots of 'up' problems all V0-V2 plus a low traverse at about V3.

There you go - that'll keep you busy for a while.

If you visit a few times there are loads of eliminates, especially on the west face.

Take care with snapping/sandy holds and don't climb there after rain.

In reply to thefuturesmiles: My understanding is that the sandstone is so soft that the problems are constantly changing. That's why there's no topo.

In reply to PeterJuggler:

Not really - the holds do change a little but not drastically (one whole problem has gone from the east side recently though). The main reason is to keep traffic down on a fragile site. I've considered writing an article on the Aggle for Climber in the past, but have backed-off at the last minute due to such concerns.

In reply to thefuturesmiles: why bother with a topo just go and climb ,and either you can do the problems or you cant,hope for a sunny windless day ..

In reply to victorclimber:

A light breeze keeps the midges/mossies off.

In reply to steve taylor: That's awesome steve! Thanks for the tips. Any idea what the awkward pinch problem on the (i think it's the) north face goes at? Starting low, pulling to a good edge with the left then grabbing the pinch with the right and pulling up to a jugs? Didn't send it but guessing it'll be around v4...

In reply to steve taylor: Ps, I'm with you about the traffic but it would be cool to log some stuff on ukc, with or without the topo.

In reply to thefuturesmiles: Steve, north side, heading there now. Hopefully send it

In reply to thefuturesmiles: WEST face! I feel special! :0/ just had a great play on the east face and it's time to try the pinch

In reply to thefuturesmiles:

That photo of Joff Cook I posted earlier on up the thread is the pinch problem. Grade depends on what holds you use to get to the pinch - I've generally dynoed from there to the juggy slot. Probably V3/4, but height dependent (Joff is very tall, so it's only V2 for him )

In reply to steve taylor: Nice one steve. That's a great picture had a good session yesterday and it was good to have some kind of focus so thanks again for the info. Didn't send the pinch though! Next time. It's a quality hold that wants to be used! Tried two approaches; one from low under the roof to the left, climbing rightwards, and getting the pinch with the right hand; the other approach was more direct, like in the pic, but haven't tried the dyno yet. Could be the answer