UKC

Finger Injury/ Discomfort

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idrinkyourmilkshake 23 May 2019

I was wondering if anyone could help me identify (whether I've got) an injury? I've been bouldering for a couple of months now and am working at around V3-V5, a lot of the stuff I do involves crimps. After a session last week my middle finger and ring finger on my left hand felt a little stiff and I found that I have some discomfort just before my last pad, but only really when I bend my fingers back at the tip/ rub over that joint. I've noticed that this actually occurs on both hands, but I think particularly on the ring finger of my left hand. There isn't much pain at all more just a slight discomfort, but it hasn't seemed to get any better over the last few days despite icing it and doing contrast baths. It doesn't hurt at all to bend my fingers towards my palm, literally just when I extend them at the top. Should I avoid climbing on it and is it something to be worried about in terms of it getting worse?

 Iamgregp 23 May 2019
In reply to idrinkyourmilkshake:

Difficult to say really, might just be a bit tweaky, sounds like you might want to be careful before you do develop a proper pulley strain (you'll not be in any doubt when that happens!).

What I would say, however, if you've been bouldering for just a couple of months and are climbing V3-V5 crimpy problems you want to think about backing off a bit. 

Your muscle strength, technique, and ability will develop much faster than your tendon strength so you're likely to give yourself a pulley injury of you carry on the way you are going.

Try to mix it up a bit with juggy overhanging, balancy, non crimpy stuff - it'll make you a better all round climber anyway and give your tendons a chance to catch up!  

idrinkyourmilkshake 24 May 2019
In reply to Iamgregp:

Thanks very much for your reply, I actually did a bit of an open hand session yesterday and it seems to have accelerated the healing, definitely feels better than before. I will take your advice and try to even things out a bit.


Cheers


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