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France not Font

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 Obi Wan 05 May 2019

Thinking of heading back to France this year for family holiday but to involve a bit of bouldering.

Did Font last year so just wondering if anyone has any recommendations for other any other areas?

 Climber_Bill 05 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

Annot in the South of France.

OP Obi Wan 05 May 2019
In reply to Climber_Bill:

I'll take a look

 Graham T 05 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

Targasonne maybe, right near the pyrenees.

1
OP Obi Wan 05 May 2019
In reply to Graham T:

Both look ace, but maybe a little too far south to drive with little ones.

Any further north or central? Looked at menezham, anyone been?

 GHawksworth 05 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

There is a LOT to Font... have a look at Jingowobbly Top Secret if you think you've been everywhere already

OP Obi Wan 05 May 2019
In reply to GHawksworth:

Yeah did wonder about Font again. Not even scratched the surface, by no means been everywhere already but Mrs Wan didn't want to go back to the same area for holiday.

 Climber_Bill 05 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

Nice walks, lakes and, of course, the coast, not too far from Annot. Can be hot in August, but there is shade and various aspects for variety.

Edit; should read "not too far from the coast"!

Post edited at 15:14
 Adrien 05 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

What time of year are you thinking of going? I haven't been in summer but I reckon Annot would be too hot, even though the boulders are mostly in the shade. (Also, if you're going to boulder on sandstone in a forest, might as well go back to Font ) Also it felt a bit isolated to me, you'll have to drive loads on twisting roads to get anywhere of interest. Verdon is an hour's drive, Mercantour may not be too far either.

I'll suggest Ailefroide near Briançon: it sits at an altitude of around 1,500m so doesn't get too hot in summer, but the weather tends to be really good (bar the occasional afternoon thunderstorm), the area is beautiful and the campground is perfectly located, you can access a number of boulders with a short walk-in. Guidebook available in Briançon (Approach Outdoor), possibly the Bureau des guides in Vallouise and most probably the gear shop in Ailefroide itself. Lots of great hikes in the area (such as the lac de l'Eychauda) and should you bring sport gear there's also loads of multipitch around the campground and dozens of crags within an hour's drive.

Have yet to go to Kerlouan (what you called Menezham) but it's supposed to be good, lack of heat guaranteed, rough granite boulders by or on the beach, no climbing crowds. The guidebook (available for free on an app or to print) is a bit basic but if you like to explore there are probably tons of FAs to be had...

Those, with the addition of Targassonne (and Font obviously), are probably the only bouldering areas in France that could be considered a destination. Corsica also looks good but it's a good bit farther from Britain, and I remember the summer as being pretty hot there (not to mention the high risk of wildfires).

OP Obi Wan 05 May 2019
In reply to Adrien:

Will be August when we go. Liking the sound of kerlouan although the Mrs thinks the weather will be more British than French.

 Adrien 05 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

It's definitely on the cool side and tends to be fickle. Last summer it was horrendously hot everywhere in France but along the northern coast and in Brittany where it was a pleasant 20-22C on average, yet sunny. If you choose to go there maybe have a backup plan. (Font is a 6hr drive from Kerlouan)

 RobertHepburn 05 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

Les vans, in the ardeche, has limestone, sandstone and granite bouldering and amazing swimming along the rivers. Hot in in August but it works if you get out early enough. Maybe a bit far south ...

OP Obi Wan 05 May 2019
In reply to RobertHepburn:

Good shout, but yeah a bit too far. 

 GDes 06 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

Another vote for ailfroide. Beautiful place, great walking, loads to do. The bouldering will be nowhere near as good or extensive as font, but probably enough to keep you going for a week

 1234None 06 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

This place maybe:  https://climbingaway.fr/fr/site-escalade/la-hottee-du-diable

Maybe not that extensive (I have never been) but no further than Font and could be a good stop on the way somewhere else...?

Post edited at 06:08
#4fs 06 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

Kerlouan is not amazing, neither is targasonne. Ailefroide. 

OP Obi Wan 06 May 2019
In reply to 1234None:

Liking this idea!

OP Obi Wan 06 May 2019
In reply to 1234None:

Think you might have cracked it! Always fancied visiting Reims too. Do you know if there are any topos or guide books?

 James FR 07 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

There's one linked to on the website PeakDJ gave: http://tortega.blog.free.fr/public/La_hottee_du_diable.pdf

It's not the most inspiring part of France but there are some nice villages, and champagne obviously.

OP Obi Wan 08 May 2019
In reply to James FR:

Excellent, thanks!

 1234None 09 May 2019
In reply to Obi Wan:

Sorry - don't have much further info, but it looks like James delivered the goods with the topo above.  I live in Central France and don't get to the Reims area often, but I plan to visit la Hottee du Diable next time I am in the area.  I know of a few good spots further South, such as La Prieure between Montpelier and Millau, and Cregols in the Gorges du Lot.  There are also a few little limestone bouldering spots which I really like dotted around the Poitiers and Angouleme area - a bit of driving (an hour or so) to do around the area to fill a week, but a nice area to explore with some really cool rock formations and some good problems.  If the place near Reims isn't what you're looking for I can give you a bit more info on some other spots, but they are all further South.....

I forgot to add that I visited Kerlouan in Brittany last year and was impressed....not purely by the climbing but by the whole ambience and environment.  It would be the perfect place for a family holiday with a bit of bouldering, but as others have said,...if the priority is climbing, then there are probably much better options.  Notwithstanding, it looks amazing for snorkelling, kayaking and a whole host of other activities in an amazingly beautiful spot, with some great looking boulders on or next to the beach.  

OP Obi Wan 10 May 2019
In reply to 1234None:

Unfortunately climbing isn't the priority, it's more a case of family holiday with added bonus of a day or two bouldering so this area looks perfect. Got lucky last year as we went to Font and stayed in the middle of trois pignons, ten minutes from climbing so managed 3 days on the rock.

Mrs wan is loving the look of the champagne area, plus plenty to do for the kids; chateau's, Reims, a cellar tour on a train! And maybe a day or two at Hotter which looks like a mini Font and just as kid friendly.

Thanks for the advice from you and everyone else, now found a beautiful gite and everything booked.

Just need to find somewhere to hire a crash pad (which is what I did last year as no room in the boot), otherwise it's low level stuff on my flight pad.


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