UKC

/ Good easy bouldering

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bedspring on 12 Jun 2018

Due to weather, life and health issues my climbing has taken a bit of a knock back. I would like to just get moving on rock. Going to Font would be plan A, but thats not practical at the moment. 
Can anyone suggest somewhere West Yorks, Peak, South Lakes where I could get some mileage in.
I live in Lancs, but TBH the Lancs bouldering guide is not inspiring me.

climber34neil - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

Burbage south would be as good a place as any to start

Jon Stewart - on 12 Jun 2018
bedspring on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Jon Stewart:

LOL, I was in Enerdale last weekend, but sadly its a bit far for me, thanks anyway. It is rather beautiful there isn't it.

Jon Stewart - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

Not really South Lakes I guess I don't rate the South Lakes bouldering, the limestone is dire (obviously) and Badger Rock is OK but there's not a lot of it. Have you been to West Yorks Bridestones? Awesome place, lots to do.

HammondR on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring: Shipley Glen. Whenever I have no one to climb with, that is my number 1 destination for 30 years. More short routes than boulder problems. Also West Vale. Strong fingersin'ell!

 

bedspring on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Kebs .its funny I have only been on winter when it has been cold, which o do not like. That is a thought 

bedspring on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to HammondR:

Hmmm I have a matelocal to there who may give me a guided tour

Jon Stewart - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

The climbing at The Glen is awesome. I used to live within walking distance so got to know the place well. But aesthetically it is an acquired taste, being an urban shithole littered with turds and johnnies.

Ramblin dave - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

I'm very much a dabbler when it comes to bouldering, but I've been to quite a few of the obvious Peak gritstone venues over the years and enjoyed all of them. Off the top of my head, that's the Roaches, Robin Hood's Stride, Cratcliffe, Birchen, Burbage South, Over Owler Tor, Stanage Plantation and Wimberry - generally nice climbing in nice locations.

JLS on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

Widdop

paul__in_sheffield - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

Hi there,

for South Lakes, the stuff in the Kentmere valley is excellent. Good quality rock, pretty quiet valley and lovely views. Badger Rock, Little Font and Valley of the Kings areas make a nice walk and a circuit. Also in that area, Brant Fell is easy access, lots of ‘up’ problems and a couple of long pumpy traverses all at accessible grades and a brilliant view over Windermere. Chapel Stile circuit has lots to do too. All in the lakes bouldering Rockfax or on Lakes loc.

Prob heresy looking at Jon S’s post, but we always stop off at Limestone on our way up the M6 heading north. From the parking spot for Newbiggin, you can also walk over to Hutton Roof, plus another set of boulders whose name I can’t remember. They’re all on one handy pdf on Lakesbloc

Enjoy, Paul

Offwidth - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

I'd avoid the kebs: very worn and not so good at the easier end. My favorites of the less well known major places are West Nab,  Standedge, Blackstone Edge, Buckstones, and Woodhouse Scar all in YMC and BMC Moorland and Lancs guides. Enough at each for days of exploration. All better than the big names at lower grades.

Jono.r23 - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to JLS:

But watch out for the midgies if the wind drops!

Will Hunt - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

There are lots and lots of venues on www.unknownstones.com which are stuffed with easy grade climbs (though you don't say how easy you consider easy to be).

robin mueller - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

Blackstone and Stony Edge are both brilliant for easier bouldering. Bull Stones is also a mega day out. Hutton Roof is also good if you are happy to highball 6m routes (generally harder at the start and easy at the top). I guess you must have been to Brownstones, which has loads of lower grade stuff. 

Have you tried many of the Lancs crags? I've climbed all over and the lower grade bouldering in Lancs is as good as anywhere, if not better. Most of the Peak District venues already suggested, for instance, have limited stuff in the easier grades in comparison with many Lancs venues. Offwifth's list of favourites is a good one - as he says, the better easier bouldering tends not to be at more famous crags. If you head up to one of those less travelled moorland venues on a breezy summer day, there's nowhere better in the world.

Post edited at 10:54
snoop6060 - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

Shipley Glen is always fun with loads of easy stuff with decent landings.

Bob Kemp - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to robin mueller:

It depends on where Bedspring is at rehabilitation-wise but I’d second Hutton Roof for the early stages of rehabilitation, when what’s required is often plenty of easy movement on rock rather than definite problems. 

 

Post edited at 12:39
Michael Hood - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Bob Kemp:

For easy movement soloing at Windgather is pretty good. Just depends whether you're happy with that. The finishing holds all slope the nice way though

bedspring on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to robin mueller:

> If you head up to one of those less travelled moorland venues on a breezy summer day, there's nowhere better in the world.

Blackstone Edge v Font, i will have to think on that.

 

 

bedspring on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Bob Kemp:

We like walking around Farleton Fell, so may go for a walk or bike ride with my wife, and take my rock shoes.

Bulls Crack - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Jon Stewart:

 

What? It's another Eden!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=21893 

 

Plenty of easy problems too - I think someone specialised in adding them a few years ago. 

Offwidth - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

I've done much more than most for a lower grade boulderer on the easier circuits at Font, in all seasons, and I find way too many problems rather tired and worn, unlike the venues I suggest. There may be heading towards a thousand problems on Blackstone Edge at font5 and below, the vast majority unlisted. Many hundreds at the other venues, except Woodhouse Scar where there are around a hundred and the urban venue is rather marmite. There are tons of great little venues across the moors in Yorkshire, Lancashire and the Peak.

bedspring on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Offwidth:

> There may be heading towards a thousand problems on Blackstone Edge at font5 and below, the vast majority unlisted.

 

Well to be fair I did ask and I do claim that my preferred climbing is FA onsight, so maybe I should get my fat arse over to Blackstone Edge on Sunday and have a wander around and see what I can find. 
 

And any way I have my bag of POF, so I can pretend I am at Font.

< Sound of Bedspring running away giggling :-0>

 

Post edited at 19:57
plyometrics - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

Thorn Crag. 

bedspring on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to plyometrics:

I have a little dog, but its a place I want to go.

Bob Kemp - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Will Hunt:

Thanks for that link to unknownstones.com. That was an eye-opener. 

steveriley - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

I’d humbly second the Blackstone Edge suggestion. Loads to go at, I did 30-40 problems on my first visit and there’s loads to go at beyond that. Nice rock, nice feel to the place. If it was in the peak, people would be all over it.

Will Hunt - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Bob Kemp:

Hopefully in a good way!

robin mueller - on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to bedspring:

> Blackstone Edge v Font, i will have to think on that.

Well, it's a matter of preference... but in Font a typical easy day in the summer involves following painted numbers round supposedly easy polished classics, queuing for problems or dodging the crowds. And it's baking hot, so everything feels sweaty. At Blackstone on a typical easy day in the summer you usually have the crag to yourself, grippy gritstone, wide views and cotton grass all around. It might be warm but you'll get the most of any breeze going. 

So like I said...

Bob Kemp - on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to Will Hunt:

In a good way - I knew about a lot of these places and had even visited a few but didn’t realise the extent of reasonable problems at many of them. 


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