In reply to Stig:
> It's not grip strength - ie how hard you can squash something in your hand - it is is static strength throughout the chain from your finger up through arms and shoulders and lower back. So in other words you just have to keep climbing and training and you will gradually get stronger. Don't force it or you will probably injure yourself - usually in the weakest link, ie your finger tendons/pulleys.
> Also it's not just about strength but improving your energy systems. The reason you get pumped is lactic acid build up because you are using anaerobic respiration. Climbing more and more increases the density of capillaries which makes you more efficient - but also as you gradually get stronger a given move will demand less contraction of your muscles. [i'm simplifying somewhat]
> Warm up with easy problems.
> Do loads of volume - eg traversing along a vertical wall. This is a good way to warm up and warm down, as well as improve technique. You should especially focus on volume in the early days. It would be the same in any sport - running/cycling etc: building a base.
> Do loads of easy-ish steep-ish problems. It's simply not true that you only have to climb slabs or easy angled problems.
> Try a small number of harder problems in a session once you are warmed up. You will only get stronger by actually trying hard - ie causing hypertrophy in your muscles.
> Watch and copy what better climbers do particular in body positioning and how they initiate movement. On steep groud beginners try to pull up with their arms/upper back but good climbers initiate movement from the lower body (because they are stronger muscles and don't tire as quickly).
> be patient but focus on progression and don't look for shortcuts. Be positive and enjoy it. Don't be afraid to ask for advice.
This is great advice.