UKC

Trying to figure out this problem:

BMC BMandB guide has Guppy Arete at V2 5c and V6 with a sit-down.

VB PDB has it as Classic Arete and 7A (V6)

PDB has it as a 6C maybe a 7A+ since there are 2 variations described here - http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/8-burbage-south-edge/...
There is also a video of someone doing it and making it look more V6 than V2, and not starting with a sit-down.

UKC Logbooks has Guppy Arete (V2), Guppy Sit-down (V6) and Classic Arete (7A+) recorded, all with ticks.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=89

I tried it this afternoon and it certainly felt a lot harder than V2, but I am puzzled why it has ticks without comments at that grade.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

V2 IS hard for me: sustained 5c moves and getting quite high. I can make such a V2 look V8! Also it goes better in cool weather. Over-brushing and over-chalking doesn't help this problem either: it will be drifiting up and may have got damaged and hence harder (I was last on it about a year ago).

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Guppy Arete sitstart at V6 is perhaps climbing the arete on its left - it is possible to do a sitter here.

The V2 is presumably stepping onto the right side of the arete from the step up in ground level.

It gets harder if you start lower. 7A+ comes from rocking around the arete low down, but I always thought this was a bad sequence on an obvious line, hence 6C in PDB. VB obviously plumped for 7A.

In reply to robin mueller:

Thanks Robin.

I think you are right about Guppy Arete being if you start the arete from the higher ledge on the left, but then the logical way to do it is on its left-hand side which is described in BMandB as Guppy Left at a reasonable V1 (5c). To pull around to the right-hand side here would be very artificial, and probably still harder than V2 (5c).

I remain to be convinced that Guppy Arete actually exists as a problem. I think the problem Classic Arete is the one here.

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

"I remain to be convinced that Guppy Arete actually exists as a problem."

lol. guidebook editor's revenge for being spanked eh?