UKC

We’re in Jersey this week, mon-fri. Does anyone know of any nice areas to go bouldering or DWS? We’ve got shoes/chalk but that’s it. 
 

Also interested in snorkelling and coasteering. If anyone has any experience or advice I’d appreciate all suggestions. Thanks, george

Would also be interested in classic, well travelled, solid routes up to about VS/HVS if anyone has any info? The rock looks great here!

I could be completely wrong but I got the impression that both bouldering and DWS was fairly limited although with the large tidal range I expect some would be possible. A new guide has just been published so perhaps that will cover that further.

There are certainly some cliffs that you access and could solo at without the need to abseiling in, am always hesitant to suggest any particular routes to solo as is quite a personal and dangerous activity and as you know soloing a short HVS on say a grit outcrop is going to be quite different to a big sea cliff HVS. I have made two visits and we almost exclusively used ropes seeking out the most classic routes mainly in HS-E3 range some of which would make good solos so there is stuff to go at. the oly places i remeber specificly soloing were a few routes at the I did a small amount of soloing at following accessible crags: Dangle Dell,  Trespass Point & on La Cotte Island South Face which is covered as part of  La Cotte de St Brelade - at this crag check out the photo on J Dawes on the amazing The Right Stuff (E2 5b). Have a great time, Jersey is a completely under rated sea cliff climbing location so perhaps even if you can't do too much on this trip you will be inspired to return.

contacting Kevin Eloury (K1 on here) who has written the guide or via the jersey climbing facebook group could provide some better information

Rabbits Head and The Pinnacle provide a couples of evenings of excellent HVS in beautiful settings (well the same could be said for any crag in Jersey as regards the setting probably).

Jersey dosnt really have deep water soloing and the bouldering is limited and local ( no guidebook) but it does exist.

The best accessible bouldering is the base of ' le pinnacle' an amazing venue... with some of Jerseys best routes at all grades..

Other easy venues that are easy access for bouldering are Dangle dell main wall and Corbiere causeway area...easy bouldering with sandy landings...beautiful.... all these areas don't have guidebooks...its all local knowledge. 

One area I would recommend is St. JOHN'S Bay on the North coast...park at the Quarry...hit the beach and go right for 20 mins... locally known and discovered by local boulderers.....you need a really low tide and warm day to dry the boulders

Regarding the best vs -hvs on Jersey...

Perihelion on rabbits head ..best route on Jersey

Second parabola... )Gronez Point

Don't look in the bathroom - Rouge Nez

Cover me -rouge nez

Richards fields and Homesick angel on the Pinnacle..... all these routes won't disappoint. 

Regarding coasteering...you need to be very careful in the Channel Islands as they have one of the biggest tidal ranges in the world .... apparently?

The local commercial coastering venue is Greve de lecq on the n.coast.

At the right tide there is a swim through cave that leads to little Greve and amazing cliff jumps and potential water soloing and coasteering...its an amazing area but you need to be careful as its easy to get caught out and end up swimming back round the headland...

Thanks for the info. Had a look around corbier causeway today. Looks like there would be good surf out there on the reefs too! Also went for a swim at greve, surprising shore break and a bit of swell about. Had a brief dive but didn’t go beyond the headland. Would need calmer seas... we’ve got in touch with the local club so heading out with them tomorrow evening which should be nice. Yeah there’s some big tides here, plenty of water moving about although I’ve not seen it look as gnarly as it does off the lleyn / Anglesey but I’ve got a healthy respect for the sea...

Another option for a safer coasteering session is Beauport on the south coast.

Park at the headland carpark...descend to the main crag.. and traverse around the headland left to right at mid tide...around Vs 5a ..with a crux finish...very nice.....  many rock jumps possible off various platforms.

The island in the bay has various jumps at High Tide ...and at low tide the gully under the house on the cliff has nice bouldering aswell.

Ex Jersey climber here, try to arrange a meet up with someone from the local club, they are a good helpful and friendly bunch.  They can also advise on safe access to some of the crags.  Kevin's guide books are excellent.  As others have said the tidal situation is serious and not to be underestimated if you are not familiar with the Channel Islands. One of my favourite crags is Sorel Point. 

Ask in the FB groups - Jersey rock climbing club, and jersey climbs, with any luck you'll find someone happy to take you out.

The sea is still very cold (12 degrees?) at this time of year, so you'll need a wetsuit for coasteering or snorkelling. It's spring tides at present, so simply go to your chosen location at low tide then jump off 4 hours later in the evening when there's 20ft+ of water

I was pleasantly surprised by the sea! 14 degrees; 5/4 wetsuit and no gloves/boots and I was boiling for 2hrs surfing. Also did a DWS this morning at beauport and jumped off the top in my shorts and it was totally bearable. There must be scope for some awesome DWS here. It was 10-11° back home in wales 2 weeks ago...