UKC

Hello, I have become extremely interested in bouldering this year, but despite somewhat good fitness, I am very new to the activity and keen to learn. I have been going to a climbing centre where possible but due to lockdown no. 2 that is no longer possible. Could some pros or climbers in training recommend how to improve my ability without access to a bouldering centre. Ie are there finger strength/upper body/leg/core/technique activities I could do from my home to better train me for climbing when I may return to a centre? Thanks! Jess x

In the first year, the most important thing is to learn technique.  Climbing as much as you can (without getting injured), is the best thing.  Learning footwork, body positioning, reading movement and so on is the foundation of climbing at all levels.  This is all fun stuff.

Training strength and endurance can become a bigger factor later but you’re more likely to injure yourself if you start early.

Unfortunately, training technique isn’t an option for most of us through lockdown.  

It's hard to say without knowing your age and base level of fitness/strength but I would suggest, if you are brand spanking new to climbing, that you shouldn't look at things like finger strength. If you can get out and climb at all, do that. If you can't I would focus on getting a strong base level of fitness/strength/balance up so that come the spring when the weather is good (or whenever the walls re-open), you have a good foundation to start learning. 

Focus on improving your nutrition and fitness, as well as improving your strength:weight ratio (this is quite a big deal for climbers and some can take it too far but if you could stand to loose a couple of kgs, that will only help). 

I would recommend getting a TRX or equivalent and a pullup bar if you don't have easy access to a playground or similar where you could do these exercises.

For pull strength - Hanging scapula shrugs and pullups (various)

For core - leg raises (various), crunches, planks (various) 

And don't forget your antags. Climbing is often pulling but if all you train is pulling then you can build imbalances and are likely to get injured. Weight training and body-weight exercises like pushups are good to accompany pulling exercises. 

If you get a TRX, there are loads of things you can do with them to improve all round strength. 

You can safely train as a newb on a fingerboard if you know what you're doing but it is risky. Connective tissues (ligaments, tendons, etc.) take a lot longer to strengthen than muscles do, so if you go too hard, too soon, your new muscles can put a strain on them that they can't cope with and injuries will scupper you. That's why you will see a lot of people say as a rule of thumb to climb for 12-18 months frequently before doing any serious finger-strength training. 

Welcome to the forums and glad to hear you've been enjoying bouldering despite the catastrophe of this year. It really depends where you're based, but the best thing would be if you have some bouldering in your local council area. If so, then try to get hold of a boulder mat and a guidebook/topo and go explore - ideally with one housemate/friend. That's still allowed under current lockdown rules.

If you're unfortunate enough not to have any rock close by, then you could do some exercises. But, I'd say that you should only do these things if you enjoy them as an end in themselves, rather than feeling obliged.  Maybe get a pull up bar and a yoga mat and do some basic body toning exercises, e.g. pull ups, press ups, floor-based core exercises and so on. If you're not very fit, generally, then a gentle run once or twice a week could also be good (and enjoyable).  Aim for longer and slower rather than shorter and faster, but if you don't run already then maybe build up slowly to avoid injury. Yoga is also beneficial for climbing (core strength, flexibility, breathing) and a lot of people really enjoy it (though, I'm not very into it myself tbh).

Also a good time to crib up on technique videos/books and get inspired. E.g. ...have you considered trad climbing?

Hope this helps! Good luck!
CW

As has been recommended avoid finger strength training at this stage.  The risk of injury is high and could keep you out for a long time.

If you cannot get outside then I think yoga is as good as anything.