/ Must do 7B, 7B+'s in North Wales

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jezb1 07 Jun 2019

I need some inspiration!

The only 7B I've done is Ultimate Retro Party, and the only thing hard Left Wall in Parisella's.

John Kettle 07 Jun 2019
In reply to jezb1:

Wrong channel Jez, post this on UKBouldering and you'll get lots of recommendations ;-)

If you want any Lakes ones let me know!

1
jezb1 07 Jun 2019
In reply to John Kettle:

I haven't got an account on the dark side!

John Kettle 08 Jun 2019
In reply to jezb1:

Ha! That's why you've only done one...

1
bensilvestre 08 Jun 2019
In reply to jezb1:

Recently did Wonderwall at Crafnant. Soft 7b+ and about as close to perfect as it gets. Great photo in the logbooks (don't know how to add logbook links to route names sorry)

petegunn 08 Jun 2019
In reply to bensilvestre:

Wonderwall (f7B+)#photos

AMorris 13 Jun 2019
In reply to jezb1:

a few suggestions:

The Incredible Shaking Man SS (V7) I would say top end 7A+/low 7B, amazing problem

Jerry's Wall SS (V8) soft for the grade imo, but nice climbing on a lonely boulder

Moria (f7B) superb problem, if a tad sharp in places

Bus Stop (f7B+) classic

James Pond (ss) (V8+) providing there is 2 weeks of blazing sun to dry out the bog, were it not for this it would be on everyones wishlist

Barrel Groove (V8+) superb cranking. 7B+ or 7C depending on whether you use the heel toe cam, so hard for the grade and very thin

Full Homage Traverse (f7B) I have no idea what grade this gets, could be anywhere from 7A to 7B really. But basically do a full right to left traverse of the homage boulder at Bustach. Has some amazing moves and sustained sequences. Completely underrated.

Harvey Oswald (ss) (V8+) Tricky sit start into the classic stand. Nice

Rampless (V8) is supposed to be really nice, though I have never been bored enough to do it.

Cashmere (f7B) more 7A+ than B really, and not the best around, but worthwhile and Tany is definitely worth visiting. This is only really here so I can suggest doing this then going and doing Tempest (f7A) which is the best 7A in north wales imo

Boneyard (V8) classic, even more classic if choose to heave rather than heel

Wavelength (V8+) classic

The Confederate (V8) rarely climbed but surprisingly compelling moves. Harder than any of the other 7B's on this list imo.

Johnny's Problem (V8) one move really, not world beating but its something to do whilst trying Bus Stop.

Willy Two Goes (V8) supposed to be fantastic

Witches Knickers (V8) rarely repeated and a bit esoteric, but really nice with a fantastically burly first pull.

Nick's Sexual Problem (V8) often tried, seldom repeated. Baffling is the word.

Ultimate Warrior (f7B+) lonely but one of the best at the grade anywhere to be found (I hear)

I could go on...

Post edited at 16:55
jezb1 13 Jun 2019
In reply to AMorris:

Awesome, thank you!


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