UKC

Courtesy of Mick Ryan and Jo, we now have three new features on UKClimbing:
-an exclusive interview with Lisa Rands, by Heath Norton, who set up VBouldering magazine (which you can order online or buy at Rock+Run shops); plus a PDF of the interview from the mag, which looks much better than HTML ever could; see it at http://www.ukclimbing.com/caff/features/vbould-rands.html

-Mick introducing the mag and explaining what it's about at
http://www.ukclimbing.com/caff/features/vbouldering1.html

-Jo's review of the first issue which is titled "Hot Chicks Who Climb". Hmm, wonder what she'll make of it? Find out at http://www.ukclimbing.com/caff/features/vboulder-rev.html

Enjoy..
Charles

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC Editor:

You can also see a review of V Bouldering (1st issue) on

http://www.ukbouldering.com

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC Editor:

This mag is hilarious - can you imagine a British mag publishing a feature called 'How to climb like a girl' or 'Hot chicks who climb'.

Well, Jo Purslow & I are writing an article about UK women boulderers for ote - can't imagine the title Hot Bouldering Brit Chicks going down too well though!!! But its a thought....

Interested in Jo's opinion - can you e-mail me? Cheers

Lucy

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: with "How to climb like a girl" they're trying to make a serious point to us muscle bound boys to use technique rather than just cranking...curious though in that case to use the muscle bound Ms Tiff...but at least she kept her top on...

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC Editor:
Is mick american, or has he been attending a 'how to sound american' evening course at his local college?
Mag looked alright.

In reply to Lucy E:
'Hot Bouldering Brit Chicks going down'

Dunno, could be a winner.......

In reply to Andy Robinson:

Perhaps an article called "Boulderes wives"

In reply to Randy Slapp:

yeah, and our review was up well over a month ago! pah, we're keepin it real man!

In reply to brendonTendon:

It was Brendon...but it's very short and doesn't tell you much. I think Jo's is a lot better.

M

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Oh good. More about bouldering. Just what we need.

Good read, though, and our heroine seems like a sound lass. Bizarre notion of the interviewer's about US women not bouldering because it's too dangerous. Wonder how he thinks they manage to drive to the crag? Still, you can't be too careful.

Is that a trashcan or a chalkbag underneath Lisa R on Plains High Drifter? If it's the former, colour me impressed. If it's the latter, I'm also impressed, but more with the size of the chalkbags over there than with the height of the problem.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I think it's a trashcan sized chalbag John.

M

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I am a French woman and I also find it too dangerous. And
I drive veeeery slowly.

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Short and doesn't tell you much? A little like the mag then Mick?

Have you suddnely come over all Ali G - or been reading Jimbo Kimber's article on Portland bouldering 'ma brutha'.

What are you on about ya pimpin' beeatch?

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Oooh, get her!!! I was only joking, and anyway, length isn't everything Mick, as you were saying yourself only the other day...

In reply to brendonTendon:
BO Selecta!!!!!!

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC Editor:

The same approach could be applied to other climbing mags: feature real people as well as stars, find an 80 year old climbing, etc...

In reply to Lucy E: I think it's a great mag. I really like the way it manages to be both lustful('hot chicks...' etc) and supportive.
Nice!

In reply to francoise: Yes! The UKclimbing mags are ignoring a massive potential market.....do they do so deliberately, or are they too short sighted to have noticed?

I've always assumed mags are genuinely too short-sighted to notice. The mtb mags are the same - cliquey, in jokes, no apparent interest in the bulk of the readership. The same old problems with 'elites'. In contast,Runners World has reader participation & features all the way through. (Not employee, just a fan!)

In reply to francoise:

Scary, possibly - subjective thing. But dangerous? Get real. Check out the statistics for bouldering fatalities last year and compare them to those for mountaineering.

In reply to Sarah: Yes, other sports don't just focus on their elites, do they? Do you reckon we need a new mag? I mean, if the established ones are just going to self-absorbedly crimp up their ivory towers, maybe something new is needed?
Jo: nice review, btw!
John Cox who should have made th effort to track down them thar cookies by now : 'dangerous' doesn't
equate with'deadly'?

In reply to gingerkate:

>Yes, other sports don't just focus on their elites, do they?<

They don't? When I read footie, cricket, etc. mags (also chess and bridge) I see very little about grass roots ands lots about the top performers. and frankly that's what I want, and also I think what the consumer wants. Of course climbing's a bit more of a participation sport than those.

Dangerous doesn't equal dealy, I agree. If you're frightened of twisting your ankle, bouldering is definitely way too risky.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously: 'bit more of a participation sport'....er, yes, John, just a tad......

In reply to Lucy E:
Couple of title suggestions
'A Womans Touch'
'Lady and the Crank'
'Belle Rock'
'Women Who Rock'

Hpe these help Lucy and Jo