UKC

No hands/easy slabs in the peak? - shoulder injury

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 Jono.r23 03 Aug 2017

Hi,
Not really posted before but been lurking here a while.
After a recent series of shoulder issues (probably due to over cranking indoors) i've been advised by physio not to climb for at least a month (again!).
I'm not looking for medical advice on a forum so pls read on...!
When i do return.. my plan is to try and get outside more, on some low grade slabs that would hopefully really focus my footwork as opposed to too much pulling. Probably in combination with a bit of indoor top roping and not going to The Works all the time and hammering myself (relative beginner - pre injury - Irn Bru's & some yellows)
Any good recommendations for bouldering areas/problems of this type in the peak/sheffield area?
I have pottered around at burbage south, birchen edge & bell hagg.. my outdoor grade and experience is low. Font 3-4..the odd 5
Many thanks
Post edited at 09:40
 DerwentDiluted 03 Aug 2017
In reply to Tim Lairy:

Back of Ramshaw has lots of slabs suitable.
 deacondeacon 03 Aug 2017
In reply to DerwentDiluted:
The back of Ramshaw is perfect for this. Really good for toddlers climbing too. Much better than the usual 'burbage south boulders' recommendations.

 abr1966 03 Aug 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

+1 for Ramshaw....windgather down the bottom end is small but good for this also, I used to climb hands free there a lot to practice footwork.
 SDM 03 Aug 2017
In reply to Tim Lairy:
The top boulders at Cratcliffe offer plenty of no handed options to test your balance on. For extra difficulty/stupidity, some can be done with no hands and just one foot or no hands, facing out from the rock. The Blob mantel no handed is good fun if you are flexible enough to get your foot up in the first place, do it on each foot and you'll have glutes of steel in no time. You could combine Cratcliffe with some of the lower boulders and Scoop Slab Traverse at Robin Hood's Stride. That should give you plenty to go at for a day or two.

There is also plenty to go at at the Roaches Lower Tier. The problems on the Pine Tree Slab and Blister Slab are all good for no handed climbing. I imagine there is also plenty that could be done no handed on the Upper Tier and the Skyline although I can't think of examples off the top of my head. If you ran out of things to attempt for a day at the Roaches, you could pop over to Newstones and do the slabs around Varicose.

At Stanage Plantation, you could do Pebble Flakes, the slab problems next to the Bullworker boulder and some of the problems on the lone boulder. I'm sure there must be plenty of other no handed options at Stanage too.

The problems on the Big Slab at Higgar Tor are good no handed (but quite high).

Cottage Rocks at Churnet has a good few highish slabs in the font 3-5 range that are good no handed but they feel quite airy if you top them out and I can't think of many other options to fill a full day at Churnet.

If you haven't done a lot of outdoor climbing, the above grit/sandstone slabs will probably teach you far more than a month or two of pulling on plastic.

Most trad routes below severe are probably doable without hands depending on your views on highballing/soloing. Or depending on the injury, you might be able to lead them only using your hands to place gear? Or you could get someone to set up a top rope if you want to make it safer.

During my recent layoff due to a shoulder injury, I also did a fair bit of one handed climbing which might be an option if only one shoulder is injured but if you do this, be really careful; I ended up having to resort to a lot of deadpoint moves which could lead to injury in the other shoulder if you aren't careful. I also spent a lot of time making my own no handed routes and problems on the slabs at the wall. Take this time as an opportunity to really improve your footwork and you'll soon be climbing harder than you were before.
Post edited at 11:08
OP Jono.r23 03 Aug 2017
In reply to Tim Lairy:

Thanks to all of you for some great suggestions and advice
OP Jono.r23 03 Aug 2017
In reply to Christheclimber:
Yep..great little film and v inspiring. I met him once before i really knew who he was and he tried to sell me his dvd whilst on crutches..not the best advert for climbing! Funny guy. Thanks for the reminder..will watch again
Post edited at 19:30
OP Jono.r23 04 Aug 2017
In reply to SDM:
Hiya, what ate your thoughts re bouldering alone with one pad at ramshaw? ..i vaguely know the area from a hiking perspective but cant visualise these slabs..and the closest thing i found in the guide was the magic roundabout boulders..which look a bit more vertical and hard to judge hieght. Cratcliffe feels safe for a lone one pad adventure..i've faffed about up there without my kit before..
This may be a factor as im often up for getting out when others aren't so all my outdoor jaunts so far (discounting some routes in my 20's) have been alone..
Oh and also..thanks for the advice from a shouldery perspective. Valuable to hear from someone who has experienced similar issues. (Mine are rotator cuff problems..various tendon issues but no tear. And aparently under developed trapezius..blah blah.prob not relavent)
Post edited at 08:35
 deacondeacon 04 Aug 2017
In reply to Tim Lairy:

It'll be fine without a pad.
OP Jono.r23 06 Aug 2017
In reply to Tim Lairy:

Had a great day at cratcliffe! Loads to do eh. Managed to stay hands free for the most part but got a bit naughty towards the end. "The rush" is a good laugh.. a few of us messed about with that one for a while. A fun little tick.
Hopefully get to the roaches/ramshaw next week

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