UKC

Several sources say these are 6a and 6b+ but that can't be

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 TheFasting 24 Dec 2016

Had my first trip outdoors. Didn't have a pad so did something small. Very small. Managed to do them somehow and somewhat. Indoors I can mostly do f4 and I've done one f5

One of the area's nost active boulderers doing them: youtube.com/watch?v=nQwsXt6Z2y8&

Me doing them:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BOZws_vDn35/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BOZ3BeFjzPh/

I want to note them in my log as something but they can't be f6a and f6b+ like the guides say. I don't know much about grading so thought I'd ask you. Probably f4 or less?
Post edited at 15:27
 fried 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

I hate grading from vids, everything looks much easier than it is, however I think I can confidently say that these problems are crap.
 leewil86 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

Hi ...I watched the videos and your right they are really small I have climbed some small problems in the past but they are tiny and are hugely over graded , normally it's hard to tell a grade via a video but these are fairly obvious ...if I'm correct the 'buisness launch' problem at stanage is about 6b ish and requires a lot more technique than either these also lots of 6b problems I have climbed have been a lot harder , but either way it's not a problem as long as your enjoying your climbing that's the main thing

Lee
 Brass Nipples 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

Zimpara will be along in a bit. If it's 6a or 6b+ then it will be like Flying Buttress in terms of difficulty.
 tmawer 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

I think you are correct that there's something wrong with the grading. Hope you had fun anyway.
 cragtyke 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

Where are these problems, Brobdingnag?
OP TheFasting 24 Dec 2016
In reply to leewil86:

Yeah I just enjoyed the process of figuring them out. On to some new problems next week.
OP TheFasting 24 Dec 2016
In reply to cragtyke:

Haha, might as well be. I just picked the smallest ones I could find since I was alone and without a pad.
 cragtyke 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

I thought it was either that or you were about 3.5 metres tall!
 JIMBO 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

Wow! Makes the Cuttings Boulder Field on Portland look quite good
 stp 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

Holy f*&kin' sh*t.

I can't believe anyone ever bothered to climb them let alone made a video about it. Non climbers often find it hard to get their head round climbing but if they saw that.. erm... I like bouldering but I'm struggling here. That's really quite bizarre.
3
Removed User 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

Just had to climb over a washing machine in a tight kitchen to get at the back f6a maybe?
 dr_botnik 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

I'd give that first one 6a if you did it with no hands or knees, just stand next to it and JUMP. Actually, even that might be overgraded. Maybe if you hopped one legged?

I'm sorry to sound disparaging about the grade. Main thing is you had fun. Looked like a good workout for you too, so it's all good training! Good luck, hope you get a chance to get out a bit more. If you need any recommendations for soft problems in the Peak let me know
2
 Hyphin 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

Best bouldering vids I've ever seen, gives a real insight into the discipline. Well, I only watched the first one but that was really great.
 Trangia 24 Dec 2016
In reply to Hyphin:

> Best bouldering vids I've ever seen, gives a real insight into the discipline. Well, I only watched the first one but that was really great.

Amazing discipline and unique style. High quality filming too.

Makes Rocklands in RSA look like a walk in the park.
 JLS 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:
Well, those videos brought a smile to my face. Thanks for posting. If those are typical examples of Scandinavian bouldering/grading, I now feel very manly and have been inspired to go have a crack at Burden of Dreams.
Post edited at 18:43
 johncook 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

I assume your are taking the p**s out of boulderers?
1
 JLS 24 Dec 2016
In reply to johncook:

I think he is just being thorough with his training for the Seven Summits... I.e. working his way up from the bottom, so to speak. That's 2 foot high problems successfully mastered. Tomorrow the bar goes up to 2'-6" and 8848m by 2046.
 Bulls Crack 24 Dec 2016
In reply to Hyphin:

> Best bouldering vids I've ever seen, gives a real insight into the discipline. Well, I only watched the first one but that was really great.

You know? Funny thing is: they are!
OP TheFasting 24 Dec 2016
In reply to JLS:

Big mountains are just very big boulders, man
 JLS 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

And the oceans are just very big puddles. Mind you, you never see yachtsmen practicing in puddles.
 La benya 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

For the second problem, why would you start several moves in when it's that short?! At least get your monies worth and start at the bottom of the ramp!
(I would have thought they were done slightly tongue in cheek, please don't let them be your experience of outdoor climbing!)
 Chris Harris 24 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

Not so much bouldering as pebbling.....
OP TheFasting 24 Dec 2016
In reply to La benya:

Oh there are over 1000 problems in that area of Oslo. Plenty of more to do. Actual bouldering as well
 TobyA 24 Dec 2016
In reply to JLS:

I think at this point the Finns would point out they aren't technically part of Scandinavia. Normally they tell jokes where they laugh with the Norwegians about the Swedes, but here I think they might just laugh at the Norwegians!
 Michael Hood 25 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

If this is a troll then 10/10, the supporting vids are brill especially the "expert".

If this is not a troll then in the words of John MacEnroe "you cannot be serious"
 snoop6060 25 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

Great videos them. The basically sum up bouldering

1
In reply to TheFasting:

Please share many more of these videos. I've watched that first instagram one four times now. I like the brief moment of stillness at the start whilst you get focused. And Happy Christmas!
 wbo 25 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting: that is a pretty embarassing advert for Oslo bouldering, and Norway bouldering in general. Dire.

Is everything in the woods?

 C Witter 25 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

Tha LOLz. You might also enjoy this famous NW England venue: Erratic Boulder, Hest Bank Shore


OP TheFasting 25 Dec 2016
In reply to wbo:

Yeah. There are some bigger ones.

Like this one youtube.com/watch?v=Nkg42ozmiwQ&
OP TheFasting 25 Dec 2016
In reply to Michael Hood:

Well I picked these particular problems because they look ridiculous and would be pretty funny to attempt. But I also wanted to go climb something, so in that way I was serious.

Having my first outdoors problem be a rock I could just jump to climb is perfect. Although I don't know if I could jump on top of it because it reached me up to my chest, so it must be about 1.3 meters.
 zv 25 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

If the first boulder is font 6a, then it would in theory be harder than Crescent Arete (It gets like font 5+ if not mistaken?)

I wonder how many of those little boulders can you fit in the height of crescent arete? :p
 dr_botnik 25 Dec 2016
In reply to TheFasting:

Yes, sorry, no offense meant. But jumping 1.3metres is quite hard, and takes the same amount of effort climbing 6A/B is roughly equivalent to I reckon. But also, you could fit hard moves into that much rock! One of my first 6A had the hard bit pulling off the floor! No higher than your problems. I enjoyed it so much I still remember it to this day. Whether it actually was good or I was just so excited it was my first outdoor 6A I don't know, and I don't care! I imagine you feel the same
OP TheFasting 25 Dec 2016
In reply to zmv:

From the video I saw, about 3 of "Helan" (which would be about 4.5 meters). Crescent Arete looks about 5 meters high?
OP TheFasting 25 Dec 2016
In reply to dr_botnik:

No offense taken of course. Considering I've only been climbing for 2 months I really doubt these are actually f6 when I could get them after about an hour. But I've got my eye on a few other f6a's in the area that look like actual boulder problems I could try.

Either way it's fun to just be outside climbing and finding funny things like these to test out.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...