UKC

Steep bouldering in and around the Peak District

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 yoshi.h 20 Feb 2020

Any stand out suggestions for crags or specific problems around Font 7a-7c much appreciated.

Crimpy problems would be a bonus. Looking to get out next weekend so it would have to be dry in the current season (weather depending of course).

 snoop6060 20 Feb 2020
In reply to yoshi.h:

Plenty of them. Have you never been before? I'd go strange plantation if so then. You'd have a great day if you can boulder up to 7C. As you would also at curbar, Burbage and various other places. 

OP yoshi.h 20 Feb 2020
In reply to snoop6060:

I've done some of the obvious ones at Curbar Edge, Stanage Plantation and some at Wright's Rock at Churnet. And now looking to spread my wings a bit more. Really liked Gorilla Warfare/Early Doors at Curbar, Green Traverse at Plantation, Simple Simon/Fingers at Wright's Rock and so on...so perhaps something in a similar vein...

To me it seems like a lot of the well known ones around the places like Plantation and Curbar seem to be with hard compression/slopey cruxes (I know, of course there are many that don't) which is fine but just not to my strengths, so scoping out suggestions to see what is out there really. It's a 3hr drive up for me so trips are infrequent and precious...so I like to hit the right places when I do go up.

I should add 7C would be a project grade for me so looking for a worthy first in the grade.

Post edited at 16:20
 JMarkW 25 Feb 2020
In reply to yoshi.h:

Anston has some steep bits in that range

 deacondeacon 25 Feb 2020
In reply to yoshi.h:

Limestone is your friend for steep and crimpy. Anston, Tor, Stoney etc

 ChrisBrooke 25 Feb 2020
In reply to yoshi.h:

The Excreta Buttress at Higgar Tor has some good problems in the 7s. 

Warm up on Sick (f6B), then you have the slightly questionable Quintessential Higgarisms (f6B+), followed by the delightful Hemline (f7A+) which is a good warm up for Piss (f7B) and the crowning glory of Shit (f7B+). All on the same little block, mostly with the same steep roof start. It's also sheltered from the prevailing westerly which is one of the main reasons I've climbed there a lot. 

It dries pretty quickly. Good luck with the weather though, it's been consistently shocking for ages up here. I'm losing my mind.

OP yoshi.h 25 Feb 2020
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

I'd love to be able to say I have done piss and shit at Higgar Tor, looks pretty good too...looks like we're getting some more rain and snow around there this weekend. Might have to hold tight until the weekend after!

Other suggestions much appreciated. Bouldering on limestone had somehow skipped my mind but I only wish more problems topped out.

 ChrisBrooke 25 Feb 2020
In reply to yoshi.h:

> I'd love to be able to say I have done piss and shit at Higgar Tor, 

Well, if you do, just don't do it under that roof as it'll take ages to wash away......

 afx22 26 Feb 2020
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

I swear the finish of Sick is 8A, unless you're 6ft tall.   Actually, maybe 9A

1
 alx 26 Feb 2020
In reply to yoshi.h:

Steep lime is probably best for crimps, steep grit tends to lend itself more to burly hooking and compression. Below is are a few I would recommend on the eastern grit edges.

 ChrisBrooke 28 Feb 2020
In reply to alx:

Solid list. Done a few of those. 
I’d add Triangle Wall (f7A+)

Filthy crimping on a steep face. 


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