/ We're jammin' ...

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
McHeath - on 22 Mar 2019

Just got back from bouldering at the wall, and had an interesting conversation there. I found a great jam which allowed me to turn the lip of the starting roof and get into the layback position required for the rest. Back on the mat, two guys told me that "we're not climbing here, we're bouldering", and that jamming wasn't allowed; the whole thing should be laybacked. Being fairly new to bouldering walls, I just wanted to ask: is jamming seriously a no go on bouldering walls?

I could see what they were getting at; the route was graded at a level way beyond me. But I was still chuffed; 1:0 for the Peak vs. Berlin in my eyes.

Report
Emilio Bachini on 22 Mar 2019
In reply to McHeath:

I think that’s jealously right there. 

Post edited at 21:14
Report
bouldery bits - on 22 Mar 2019
In reply to McHeath:

> Just got back from bouldering at the wall, and had an interesting conversation there. I found a great jam which allowed me to turn the lip of the starting roof and get into the layback position required for the rest. Back on the mat, two guys told me that "we're not climbing here, we're bouldering", and that jamming wasn't allowed; the whole thing should be laybacked. Being fairly new to bouldering walls, I just wanted to ask: is jamming seriously a no go on bouldering walls?

> I could see what they were getting at; the route was graded at a level way beyond me. But I was still chuffed; 1:0 for the Peak vs. Berlin in my eyes.

Climbing is dead ain't it.

I blame red bull, the Olympics, Sharma, easy access bouldering walls and the fact our climbing community has been far too welcoming. It's a sport and a lifestyle now.

Report
keith-ratcliffe on 22 Mar 2019
In reply to McHeath:

In Bob we trust

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFRbZJXjWIA

'We're jammin' in the name of the Lord'

Post edited at 21:26
Report
tjdodd - on 22 Mar 2019
In reply to McHeath:

They just need to learn to jam then don't they?  I can only assume they are gym only climbers so need to get out a bit.

I have seen problems set deliberately with jamming at the climbing works before and there are certainly jamming boulder problems on real rock.

I say this as someone who detests jamming and will find anyway to get up a route or problem without jamming (which usually means I end up climbing several grades harder than needed).

Report
Myfyr Tomos - on 23 Mar 2019
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

In Bob we trust.

Pettigrew?

Report
keith-ratcliffe on 23 Mar 2019
In reply to Myfyr Tomos:

Nah - you are mixing it up with 'Baldering' - 

"Baldered

To be "Baldered" or "Balderized" often referred to when being saddled with something useless and detrimental to the job at hand. It refers back to the traditional old English punishment wherein a person was forced to perfom their daily work whilst having the village idiot supported on their back. The idiot was called a "Baldery" and it would hinder and generally talk nonsense to the "Baldered" person for the entire punishment."

Report
charlie.wilkinson - on 23 Mar 2019
tjdodd - on 23 Mar 2019
In reply to charlie.wilkinson:

Crazy

Report
BrendanO - on 10 Apr 2019
In reply to charlie.wilkinson:

Or this:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BkA8W4IjVvB/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=88x5vohxxemy

filmed at local BOULDERING wall.  Of course jamming counts for bouldering!

Report
GHawksworth on 10 Apr 2019
In reply to McHeath:

Didn't Ondra just win a bouldering world cup event finishing on a hand jam problem?

Report
rgold - on 11 Apr 2019
In reply to GHawksworth:

> Didn't Ondra just win a bouldering world cup event finishing on a hand jam problem?


Sure did.  The other contestants looked clueless, like the dummies in McHeath's gym who think holds can only be used the way they know how to use them. 

Scroll back to 1:30 to see the pitifulness of the previous contestants. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OY0QFlCIpFIt=6827

(Link doesn't seem to work from inside UKC but does work if you copy it and paste it into address bar.)

Post edited at 02:49
Report
crimpsoplenty - on 11 Apr 2019
In reply to McHeath:

Where I boulder they often set jamming problems, and as people have said above the world cup last weekend had an awesome jamming problem

Report
MusicalMountaineer - on 11 Apr 2019
In reply to McHeath:

Tell the to f*ck off and be done with it...

Report
derryclimbs - on 11 Apr 2019
In reply to McHeath:Forums

As stated above, Ondra jammed the sh*t out of a crack that none of the Japanese or Korean 'pure' boulderers could manage. 

What makes it slightly ironic, is that bouldering was born out of minimilistic climbing in a post-modern mindset. Like the boulderers saying "f*ck you, why cant we do this if we find it of value" when they were derided by big wall climbers et al. And now the tables have turned - bouldering has become so mainstream that other climbing tactics are frowned upon in their (our/my) community.

Personally, I couldn't give two sh*ts. Climb it the way you like. If you enjoyed jamming the problem. Then do it over and over again. And then tell them their V6 is really only V4, or whatever. 

Report
Flinticus - on 11 Apr 2019
In reply to McHeath:

Jamming is definitely on...as for running at a problem and jumping to a jug...that's parkour

Report
AlanLittle - on 11 Apr 2019
In reply to MusicalMountaineer:

The standard friendly bantering response to something like that in Berlin is "leck mich am Arsch"

Report
andyman666999 - on 11 Apr 2019
In reply to McHeath:

Opportunity for another classic peak sting : the downgrade 

Report

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.