UKC

Access to holcombe quarry

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 slinkydan 03 Apr 2022

I have recently been dog walking around cooks wood and bektor wood quarry at holcombe in mendip. I have peered in from the top of cookswood and can see the construction going on but away from the quarry walls I have seen online the company that is building the holiday homes inside is boasting own private beach and climbing. There for my question is would there be a way to now negotiate access to the quarry for climbers? Also bektor wood quarry has 2 bolted routes that I can see but on the log book there is 23 sport climbs am I missing something? 

 smbnji 03 Apr 2022
In reply to slinkydan:

I spoke to Mark Courtiour (SW BMC Rep) about Holcombe last year, and he said the owners when last contacted were not open to letting climbers in. He also mentioned that there's potentially been work to the rock face itself affecting existing routes.

I had a quick look on the Cookswood website and couldn't see climbing mentioned - could you paste a link?

RE: Bector Wood quarry, is access not also still an issue there? According to the crag page:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_holcombe_quarries-1971/#bector...

> Gates are in place at both main entrances to Cooks Wood and Bector Wood Quarries. Security guards prevent climbers, (and others) from entering either Quarry.

I think there's a public footpath, but in terms of climbing it is (was?) a no-go. Potentially the developers have removed the routes.

 The Pylon King 06 Apr 2022
In reply to slinkydan:

By the way, there is no such place as 'Bector Wood Quarry'. No idea who came up with that for the CC 2004 book but they are both 'Cooks Wood Quarry'. West and East or Dry and Wet. Just sayin'.....

Post edited at 19:33
 beardy mike 06 Apr 2022
In reply to slinkydan:

Most of the decent climbing in the wet Quarry are well and truly gone as the routes have been buried under tonnes of rubble and earth. A real shame as there were some decent routes. In the dry side, I can't imagine the routes have been de-equiped. Not much seems to have changed at least not when I last peered in. But the owner is particularly anti climbers. 

 The Pylon King 06 Apr 2022
In reply to beardy mike:

The Intrinsica Wall is one of the best bits of quarry in the area.

 beardy mike 06 Apr 2022
In reply to The Pylon King:

There's plenty that's atleast "worthwhile".


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