Just seen that Anston Stones has been removed from 27crags as of 09/19 due to access issues. Couldn't find any further information on UKC/UKB/thecrag. Anyone more in-the-know able to validate?
'Climbing here is now prohibited, partly through irresponsible climbing. Please respect this. [09/2019]'
"No climbing allowed" signs at main access points. I don't have any info why though.. assume it just reflects a recent generation of inconsiderate, noisy, litter dropping climbers / boulderers. Maybe increased numbers of visitors after the venue was promoted by a bouldering guide, contrast with being an under the radar esoteric venue since the trad routes being done in the 80s/90s.
Interesting you think that nick.
Compared to the amount of rubbish at the layby, rubbish on the walk in, dog poo and bags of dog poo on the walk in, I generally the crags themselves actually quite tidy.
The usual tape litter and usually some peaceful bouldering. Been climbing there for a few years.
I thought the no climbing signs had been there for years?
Edit : and the guide used to be purposefully kept difficult to access so that it didn't get too widespread - you used to have to email someone who already had it to get a pdf.
So you don't think there is a correlation with this venue increasing in popularity following the guide and the climbing ban? I was aware of climbing there for more than a few years, dunno exactly when but i think by late 90s there were about 30 or 40 recorded routes, infrequently climbed and no access problems.
I dont think any amount of tape litter should be usual. Now that comment of yours is "interesting"
> The usual tape litter
Since when has tape litter become usual? Or acceptable?
Disappointing to hear. I'll grab a photo of the signs next time I'm passing and put in an access report to UKC.
If access is prohibited it should be public domain - frustratingly 27Crags filters areas with access issues, so there's no way to know unless you know the URL for the crag, or it's been indexed by Google.
Out of curiosity, what guide is it in? I have been there quite a few times and really like the place. I have the pdf that's been in circulation, but didn't know it was in a published guide.
A small Bouldering guide. Don't know the name / author sorry. You should find a reference if you google it
Although 27 crags say it was banned in sept 2019. I think you will find that plenty of people are still climbing there.
If you look at Power club on UKB you will see what I mean.
The stones are also in SSSI woodland which makes access to them precarious.
Not sure I actually said it was acceptable. Tape litter is often usual at crags
Well that might true nick. If climbing is more visible it might get banned. Not sure that's not a good reason not to produce guidebooks though.
I've spoken to a member of the anston parish council out walking his dog and he had no knowledge of those signs. This was couple of years ago.
I love anston, been there a lot and keen on keeping it tidy.
Fair - sorry for misconstruing what you were getting at. It saddens me that tape litter is a thing at crags. As climbers we should know and be better - though of course I'm certain I'm preaching to the converted by complaining about it on UKC...
> I was aware of climbing there for more than a few years, dunno exactly when but i think by late 90s there were about 30 or 40 recorded routes, infrequently climbed and no access problems.
No access problems as in no one had asked and been told no, rather than access was allowed and then revoked?
If you find out more, it would also be useful if you sent something the BMC Regional Access Database
I picked up loads of litter on the footpaths that was clearly general public mess, probably a good idea to do the same if any of you visit. Easy to blame climbers
French climber Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of a new 9b/+ at Pic Saint-Loup, France. The route is 50m in total and breaks down into a 9a+, followed by a Font 8A+ boulder problem. He has named the route Beyond Integral.