UKC

Ban on Gandia crag

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 Lesdavmor 08 Nov 2022

I have just read in the EMV Levant newspaper that their is an access and climbing ban on Gandia crag, aka Marxuquera Penya Roja.

This is by the landowners, backed up by the police.

OP Lesdavmor 08 Nov 2022
In reply to Lesdavmor:

Correct, that is the article I was referring to in my post

 Andy Cairns 05 Dec 2022
In reply to Lesdavmor:

Has there been any update on this?  I've tried searching the local news sites but can't find anything.  We're off to the Costa Blanca next week, and Gandia would have been on the list.

Cheers, Andy

 The Norris 05 Dec 2022
In reply to Andy Cairns:

Hi Andy,

I'm sure I'll get some dislikes for not knowing about the ban, but we went last week, noticed the gate had been welded shut, read the access note on ukc to cross the riverbed, did a quick search on the net and couldn't find any particular access issues at that time, so carried on climbing.

Subsequent to that we found out about the ban after talking to a German climber at another crag a few days later who had been asked to leave a week earlier.

This was confirmed when reading the costablanca climbs Instagram page.

https://www.instagram.com/costablancaclimbs/feed/?hl=en

Based on the above i assume its still banned, so I have made a change request to the crag moderator on ukc, but it doesn't seem to have been implemented yet.

Apologies for breaching the ban, it wasn't intentional. Probably best to avoid it unless you find out something more up to date.

 ChrisJD 05 Dec 2022
In reply to The Norris:

> This was confirmed when reading the costablanca climbs Instagram page.

for UKC FYI:

This was posted on Instagram (on the photo of climbers at Gandia) on 6th November 2022: 

'ATTENTION!!! MARXUQUERA!!! Due to problems with the owners of the land where the climbing walls are located, it is recommended that everyone NOT visit the area until a final agreement is reached. Both the Club Alpí de Gandía and the Gandía City Council together with its Department of Sports are already mediating to reach a consensual solution that will allow normalcy to be restored in this popular climbing area. We will keep reporting.'

 mrjonathanr 05 Dec 2022
In reply to ChrisJD:

> can use google translate

 «Que nos lo alquilen o lo compren», señala la propietaria

= rent it from us or buy it, say the owners

You can also use lingro: hover the mouse or tap the words for a translation to appear (may not recognise conjugated verbs).
http://lingro.com/translate/https://www.levante-emv.com/safor/2022/11/08/pr... 

 remus Global Crag Moderator 05 Dec 2022
In reply to The Norris:

Thanks for submitting the access update, I've just added the change to the crag. There was 3 pretty similar changes to the access notes being proposed so I picked the one that seemed most comprehensive, hopefully I didn't miss any detail from the others!

 Andy Cairns 05 Dec 2022
In reply to Lesdavmor:

Thanks for the updates.  Sounds like worth avoiding until we hear of some progress.  I'll keep an eye on the CostaBlancaClimbs feed, though it doesn't seem like there's been anything worth updating in over a month.

Can't help feeling there are problems brewing in the area - last winter the parking area for Bovedon/Bovedin was rammed with semi-permanent vans, in spite of bright red text in the guide saying that overnight parking was not permitted, which meant that anyone trying to park for the day was scratching around for on-road space (of which there's not a lot!).  The ban at Gandia is unlikely to help that!

Cheers, Andy

In reply to Andy Cairns:

Which sectors in the UKC Logbook page refer to MARXUQUERA?  Not clear exactly which sectors are banned and which are still ok.

Edited -after some internet research it looks like MARXUQUERA covers most of the crag:

Critic, Hidraulics, Vivi, Fundicio, Potent, Final and Topdeckio.

Balls.

Post edited at 14:13
 The Mole 11 Jan 2023
In reply to Andy Cairns:

looks like there might be a recent positive development:

https://www.thecrag.com/discussion/6735629370/prohibicin-temporal--temporar...

My Spanish isn’t even close to being good enough to read the newspaper article but it seems like the local club has negotiated access

 mrjonathanr 12 Jan 2023
In reply to The Mole:

“The negotiations led by Club Alpi reopen the jewel of climbing of Gandia’’ can’t read the small text but the title looks clear enough.

 Dan Arkle 12 Jan 2023
In reply to mrjonathanr:

the article - via google translate

The negotiation led by Club Alpi

reopens the temple of climbing in Gandia

The sports entity is in talks with the owner, who closed access last November and requested the intervention of the

police. The intention is to acquire the part of the rock on which it is climbed and the orchard through which it is accessed

SERGI SAPENA GANDA

It has remained closed for

less than two months, due to the

decision of one of the land owners,

the Penya Roja de Marxuquera, in

Gandia, and the adjacent terraces

that allow access to what is the

temple of climbing in the region -

ca de la Safor

Since the last days of the

recently concluded year, climbers

and hikers in general are

once again enjoying the strong

sensations offered by this

rocky spot, as has been observed,

and dozens of people have

once again climbed those unique

reddish walls that they give the

name.

The reopening is the result

of the open negotiation between

the board of the Alpí de Gandia

Club, headed by President

Miguel Cebrián, and the owner

who, months ago, denounced

damages due to the constant presence

of climbers. As he argued,

these people, many regular

users for years, did not have

permission to access the rock

and caused damage to the farm,

although apparently the orange

trees are not in production.

The conflict reached its peak

when the property called the police

to come to the place and denounce

those who, without authorization,

crossed the terraces and

accessed the private forest. On at

least two occasions, the agents have

identified several climbers, but

there is no record that fines

have been confirmed for this fact

that, when disseminated, completely

cut off the influx of climbers.

people.

With this panorama, first the

Club Alpí de Gandia tried to get the

city council to mediate and buy

The access door.

The works of the natural path of

It was not the land necessary to

maintain a sporting activity, but

in the end it was this historical

entity that has settled with the

property and, according to different

sources, there is already an

agreement in principle for the acquisition

of the land. that are needed

to continue climbing. As a result

of this, for the last two weeks,

and as a sign of good will,

the owner has announced that she

will not denounce those who climb

the Penya Roja. In fact, it is

expected that in a few days the

purchase price will be established and

sign the deed. Of

this natural space and forests- 19

Of this

Although the agreement has

yet to be finalized and

signed, the news is already spreading

among the climbers, who

are climbing its walls again

Located very close to the Marxuquera

road, it is enjoyed by lovers

of climbing, both from Valencia and

from the rest of Spain, and even

from European countries that take

advantage of the good weather

in this area to visit the Penya Roja.

 joem 16 Jan 2023
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Clear as mud that is. Do people think tat means it’s okay to climb there, heading to costa blanca next week so be good to know.

1
 The Norris 16 Jan 2023
In reply to joem:

I think this section means it it now no longer banned, so should be OK to climb:

"there is already an agreement in principle for the acquisition of the land. that are needed to continue climbing. As a result of this, for the last two weeks, and as a sign of good will, the owner has announced that she will not denounce those who climb the Penya Roja".


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